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Working up the Alioth. Boat 2 First of all thank you to all those who have bought a coffee to support the web site for the long term future. This is not a commercial site and I make no profit from it but I do need support to ensure its longevity. People tell me that it is a great source of information and the only site of its kind, so if you do enjoy it and get value from it why not pop over to Buymeacoffee . It takes any currency. If you do thank you. If 10% of the 5000 plus visitors bought 1 coffee, I could do so much more with the site This is a story about going backwards to go forwards. Move from a well set up boat to one that had to be developed and optimised. I am not a designer so some of the steps could be seen as labourious but every stage was tested and each change offered improvement. Spoiler alert, the story is still ongoing. None of this would have been possible without the help of Paul Barton. He is probably one of the most experienced 3d printers of the Alioth in the UK and is a brilliant ideas man. Of course we would not be doing this had it not been for the creative thinking of Juan Egea. Not only has he come up with a great design but opened the door for home building once again and allowed IOM’s to become freely available to new owners (for a reasonable licence fee of course). At the MYA AGM last year, I had a chance to buy an Alioth. It was a completely standard boat, sprayed with clearcoat but un sanded, with an old Alioth fin and bulb. I thought what better way to rest the Britpop than to buy the Alioth and sail it over the winter with the Britpop rigs. When I started to sail it, I was hooked on the design but my boat setup had some issues. I sailed a bit with Craig Richards but he was months ahead of me and truth be told a better sailor. My boat needed to sail with the rigs at zero degrees rake for balance which meant the booms pointed upward and it all looked rather ugly. Having the boom band 150mm from the step meant the boom was too high. I also had a poor A rig with prebend that occurred mostly around the 600mm mark, more of a kink than a bend which was created with rollers. The end result was a poor performing boat. The first thing to do was to rake the fin aft 2 degrees so I could put some rake on the mast. Unfortunately this moves the bulb back over a centimetre so the transom dropped in the water. Then I lowered the boom band to just off the foredeck above the mast ram. I had to the rakethe fin a degree forward to get the fore and aft balance better and that resulted in weather helm which to be frank was slow. With the Britpop it was easy to power off upwind and drive hard. With my set up I had the opposite and every time I took my eye off the boat it slowed. Craig had moved his fin aft so he could rake the rigs and achieved a balanced boat and was quick from the start with his V3. Eventually after struggling at the the ranking event at Eastbourne, I bit the bullet and moved the fin leading edge rake to a full 2.5 degrees (the aft edge was dead perpendicular to the waterline and then I moved the bulb forward 1.5cm to achieve balance and keep the stern just out of the water. I was then able to test the following week and had a balanced boat with the bow and stern just out of the water. To measure things accurately (see the instruction at the bottom of the article), all you need is paper, pen and a right angled set square. Once you have the dimensions, it is easy to replicate on a new boat. The boat came with under deck sheeting which gave me some issues, tangles and restricted range of movement which took a while to sort. Since trying it out I would prefer on deck sheeting in another boat as you can see any wear on the sheet and quickly repair any fraying cord. Having sorted all of this I ended up with a boat on weight but a bulb 25gm lighter than my Britpop. So after 6 months I got the boat set up that I wanted it. Remember I am not a designer and have to work by trial and error. I also get nervous about moving things around although my confidence is building on this as my knowledge builds. In a way it is good to fiddle as you learn on the journey whereas sailing a setup boat with instruction is quick but ones learning is limited. So what to do next. We heard a rumour that Juan was going to release a file for a 2 piece boat which would make it lighter and stronger. After some gentle persuasion we got the file and printed the boat which I could put together just before the nationals. I wanted a Craig Smith fin which is the lightest available and a Robot bulb. I could not fit a Smith fin to the current boat as I had glued the fin insert for the Alioth fin into the fin box but it would fit nicely in the new boat with a customised insert and this would allow us to vary the rake from zero to 2 degrees. The only thing we lacked was time. Putting an untested boat on the water 3 days before the Nationals was fraught with risk and so it proved. Other things we did to the new boat were to fit on deck sheeting, put the pulley in the centre at the back of the boat to minimise drag in the water, move the shroud base in a few mm as the eyes had the potential to damage other boats when healed over and it would not hurt to bring the shroud base in a bit. As a consequence I shortened the spreaders on the A and B rig and modified the jib tack fitting on the boom so I can get the jibs booms as close to the deck as possible. Then it was a case of going over the boat and minimising windage as far as possible. There was a structural change. After Juan had cracked his boat near the shroud area having been hit by a Venti without a bow bumper at an event earlier this year, Paul changed the aluminium posts that provided triangulation strength at the mast and shroud area replacing them with wires so that if there was impact in this area, the boat could flex and not split although the Polymax is extremely robust. I have hit a piece hard with a hammer and seen no damage or even a mark for that matter. It was a race against time especially as we had a couple of issues with the gluing. While Paul was sorting the boat I went through my rigs and did everything I could to and make sure the setup was good. New Cunningham design, lower the bottle screws, get the booms as parallel to the deck as possible. One mistake I made was to try 80lb fishing line to attach the jib luff to the mast. Unfortunately, the bowsie kept slipping the day before the Nationals so I went back to my trusty thicker cord. I had put the same on the backstay and had to replace that as well. One of the challenges I had was running the sheeting system under the deck using PTFE tube bent through 180 degrees. The winch could not handle the friction but then it was suggested I apply silicon grease to the cord and that solved the problem. So I picked up the boat on the Saturday before the Nationals, with the biggest job, fitting the fin and bulb in the afternoon but I had my map/diagram laid out on the floor with the optimal positions from the previous boat so I could position the fin and bulb accurately knowing the boat would be balanced and with the fore and aft weight distribution correct. What I did not realise at the time was that the bulb cant to the waterline was at 2 degrees when hand fitted but when I secured it with the nut the bulb cant increases to nearly 4 degrees. I only realised this after the nationals. One little check would have shown me the issue with the bulb. One thing I was able to do was accurately measure the bottom of the bulb in relation to the waterline and calculated I would have a 2 mm gap in the tank. The on-deck sheeting was a pleasure to set up and worked well although the way I had set the winch up meant that you had to move the stick a long way to ease the sheet making precise adjustment upwind difficult. Also the mix for a high mode was not working properly. I did not have time to fix that. I did drop the shroud bottle screws to the deck to get them out of the slot and that meant fitting longer shrouds Also checked the mast was a firm fit where it entered hull at the deck and happy to say it is rock solid. One final tweak was to the transmitter rudder control. I have a habit of over steering just after the start so I have introduced 20% of exponential to the steering. I had a quick test sail on Monday to check the sailing balance and that the boat sat in the water correctly. The transom was just out of the water and the bow 25mm out. I had 200gm of correctors to play with which I would position when the boat was measured. The boat was measured in Gosport on the Tuesday. It was exactly 1m long and the bulb 2mm above the limit and the rudder just inside the perpendicular from the transom. I had got something right. We had time to precisely locate the corrector weights. Wednesday was spent practice sailing at Frensham and then Thursday I raced at Gosport. That is when I got concerned about speed. The boat was just not powering off the start line. Yes it was shifty but I was getting rolled by boats around me. Not much I could do but live with it and take it to the Nationals. On the Friday at Poole there was a decent breeze and this is where I learnt that 8mm was not enough prebend in the mast. The jib luff sagged, the leach opened too much and the result was a boat slightly off the pace. I could have increased the prebend for the weekend but if I snapped the mast I would be off home. Thankfully the forecast was for light winds. The first day of the nationals was difficult (a polite way of saying bloody frustrating). After the seeding race I was put in C heat and progressed to B the A and stayed in A for two more races. The things unfolded. I was demoted to B then C and took 3 attempts to get out of C and then two attempts to get from B back to A where I stayed for the rest of the regatta. In summary, I was getting great starts but lacked pace and dropped back into the fleet but once back in A fleet after my excursions was always able to find a way to stay there. The result from the Nationals was not what I wanted but I was going through a commissioning process, so 14th is OK. The boat was not as quick as I would like, and I was able to nail down the reasons why and quickly fix on Tuesday. So, what was the list of things to do after the Nationals On mast bend, 8mm of prebend proved to be too little to support a firm jib luff and leech when sailing upwind. I wanted to use the same mast but with more prebend without using my rollers. I have found with the rollers that you have to get the roller settings to a certain point before the mast bends permanently. It is very easy to get hard spots, so I thought it time to bend the mast by hand. Surprisingly it is not that difficult to achieve a smooth bend by bending the mast carefully around my middle. So my 8mm turned to 15mm over 600mm and I put a gentle reverse bend into the whole mast. Only a few mm. The result when rerigged was stunning. Complete control on the jib leech and the ability to set any bend I liked and no hard spots on the mast. I will not be using rollers again. I also discovered the bulb cant was nearly 4 degrees rather than the two I thought I had. I took the bolt off, and the hand fitted bulb was 2 degrees but what I had not realised was there was a high spot in the slot on the bulb and when the bolt was tightened the bulb rocked and increased the cant. I also need to increase the weight of the bulb by 15gms. There is a hole in the slot which I can fill with lead shot so should be able to get the bulb and fin to full weight. I fiddled and reprogrammed the winch, so I was able to have full control sheeting when sailing upwind. That also restored the mixing which gives me high mode. I will put a blog up on that later. Those three things alone will surely increase the performance of the boat. All this done, I am ready to test the improvements. The journey continues. 5 months to the worlds. How to measure fin and bulb position (see picture below) After a ranking event where the weather helm caused me issues, I ended up raking the fin 2.5 degrees and moved the bulb just over a centimetre forward. This required careful trimming of the slot in the bulb but with a Dremel you can do a neat job but how to get the bulb in the right place Take 2 A2 sheets of drawing paper and tape them together along the shortest edge. Lie this on a wooden floor and place the boat on it. Use the top side as the waterline. The bulb draft limit is 3mm below the bottom or the A2 sheet. Using a right-angle triangle or T square, put a mark on the water line of the boat at the bow at the point where the designer says the bow should kiss the water. Align the boats water line with the top edge of the paper marking the exact bow and stern position. If you do this right, you will be able to move the boat and relocate with precision. Once you have the waterline established, raise the fin so it is parallel to the floor (3 dvd boxes should do it) and recheck the boats position. Also it is worth checking at this stage that the boat is 1m long. Once the boat is in position, you can mark the four corners of the fin, then mark the tip and back point of the bulb so you can measure the cant. Each point is marked on the paper using the adjustable right-angled triangle which also allows me to measure precise angles. This Alioth design requires the bottom of the leading edge to be a certain distance from the bow by drawing that line with the fin in that position and marking the front point of the bulb is, I had my starting point for the bulb position. I then marked where the centre of gravity of the bulb should be so I can line up the C of G of my new bulb in the same place with a raked fin. When I changed to a bulb with a different length, I was able to position its centre of gravity with ease.

It is possible to have a Brand-New competitive IOM in 6 weeks for less than £1500? …. Really? By Malcolm Appleton Fact or fiction? I wanted to find out, because: Like it or not we live in the Amazon generation of click and collect. What permeated the souls of Gen Z over five years ago has, supercharged by the Covid shut downs leached its way into the consciousness of the Boomer Generation. That means for me, that prospect of waiting up 18 months for delivery of a competitive hull plus another month for final fitout (or earlier for the same price as a small car) has become unacceptably frustrating. And it carries the risk that I may not live long enough to see it to fruition. ☹ But is there a solution? … continuous development of both 3D printers, filament materials and the ready availability of powerful CAD systems, could a well-designed 3D printed hulls be the answer to the maiden’s prayer in drastically reducing lead times. So, I set myself the following objectives to: prove that it’s possible to enter the world of International One Metre sailing with a modern design performance boat and win races for twice the price of a similar spec’d DF95. i.e. ready to sail with A, B & C rigs. purchase of all components and have a finished ready to sail boat in a minimum of 4 weeks, or comfortably 6 weeks find out if it was possible to build a competitive boat in my study starting from a place of never having built a boat before (feel the fear and do it anyway) and with limited model making skills plus a determination to succeed. see how the boat performed in print finished form. Being lazy, i.e. not wanting to spend too much time sanding and painting the hull, I decided to research the subject of laminar flow extensively, and concluded that at the speeds a One Metre can achieve the benefit would be marginal, i.e a lot less than one badly timed tack. Did I fulfil them? Absolutely - and this is how I chose to build an Alioth V3 Alioth V3 - IOM ALIOTH | RC SAILING LAB on the basis that a friend at Emsworth where I sail, had already printed and built a V2 and found it to be well designed and reasonable fast. Bribed with a bottle of finest Malt, I persuaded him to print one for me, and being a bit impulsive bought the licences just as the design had moved on to Version 3. How lucky was I!. I built the 5-section hull and found it to perform well, but I always wanted a 3-section one with recessed jib pivots which I think look nicer. So, I contacted Paul Barton who was happy to take my money and print a 3 section for me in a couple of weeks. Both hulls were printed using the same Polymax PLA Tough filament which seems to be as good as its word. Temperature and speed control are important if you fancy printing your own, we found in the first endeavour one of the printed parts had suspect adhesion between the layers....not good, but rectified second time around. Taking a deep breath, I slotted the prepared hull sections together, and they lined up precisely. Giving me the confidence to repeat the procedure this time with glue added to the joints. When measured by Paul Edwards at Gosport the completed overall length was exactly 1 metre, and the fin and rudder lined up perfectly. Wow - this was a pleasant surprise since I did not use an assembly jig. It’s a testament to Juan Egea’s construction design. I did use a tripod mount cross laser (Amazon £26) for ensuring the Fin was at right angles to the fore/aft water line - although strictly speaking unnecessary as the designer’s measurements are more than adequate to achieve the same result. The laser was used because I could, (another toy for the cupboard) . My biggest challenge for the build was choosing the correct adhesives. For non-flexible joints I used an MMA adhesive, which is a powerful hybrid Epoxy/CA mix. For the hull joints which need to flex to absorb potential collisions I use CT1 which is silicone based. I figured using a hard adhesive in a potentially flexible environment wouldn’t be a smart thing to do. It seems to have worked – solid boat no leaks. The printed hull was sprayed with two coats Plasticoat clear gloss, oven dried at 24 degrees (not in our kitchen oven!). Very lightly sanded in between each coat. Initial surface prep consisted very quick light sanding with 240 grit wet and dry, afterwards simply 'washing the surface’ with Multi solve CT1 Multisolve Solvent for Removing Adhesives & Sealants (500ml) cleaner to remove surface dust and any grease. I used this to clean the joints as well and has proven its worth. The finished boat ready to sail required 130gms of ballast to bring it up to 4Kgs. 120gms of which I placed astride the keel box and the remainder positioned to trim the fore/aft attitude of the boat. Trimming was to the designer’s waterline specification, using the tank at Gosport. The bare hull was fitted out using a high power DF95 rudder servo, RMG J series winch, John Gill carbon rudder (a work of art and beauty) Dave Creed Fin and Bulb, SAILSetc spars and Sailboat RC one piece moulded sails. All the parts arrived within 3 weeks allowing me to complete the hull build in time for arrival of the sails which took just over 3 weeks to get to my doorstep for the equivalent UK sourced price. In use, the hull has proven to be tough, substantially stronger than that of my Kantun K2 the Polymax filament proving highly resistant to accidental collision damage. Without other distractions I calculate that the entire build would have taken me four weeks. To conclude: This project exceeded my expectations. I learnt masses about sail settings and boat balance. Ended up with a very competitive (race winning) club boat. Felt the fear and did it anyway – what could possibly go wrong? Mistakes are only costly in time, not £££ An excellent ‘value for money’ entry into One Metre sailing. The downside? Glue is smelly and best done in the garage Glueing the parts together can be scary using a quick cure (5 min) product Having to be disciplined enough to create to create time for family while building the boat. My thanks must go to those who helped and inspired me to see the project through to its best Chris Lawrence; Paul Barton; Nigel Barrow and Steve Taylor Cheers guys Author and image copyright: Malcolm Appleton January 2025

A directory of associations, boat builders, sail makers, fitting suppliers, building, tuning and racing tip sites. The Marblehead Project Here is the story of my entry into the world of Marbleheads.

Asembling the rig Initial thoughts on rigs Note This was my first attempt at building a rig. Current rigs are much simpler) For some time now, I have considered which rig to buy. Here are my current thoughts and decisions on a rig for the new boat. Masts There are 3 tubes and one slotted design to choose from as far as I am aware. Sailsetc groovy and tube, Housemartin tube and Pierre Gonnet tube. I currently have Housemartin spars and sails and am very pleased with their performance. I bought an A, B and C rig kit last year and they were all competitive however I read that the PG masts are lighter with similar flexibility and having sailed yachts, know that weight aloft can make all the difference in a chop, so I am going to try some and compare weights and stiffness and see how they perform. After a chat with Potter Solutions, we decided that 15mm or less is the optimum pre-bend for the A rig. Any more and you can easily distort the spar by compressing the mast as you take out the prebend with the back stay, as well as introduce uncontrolled bend between the spreaders and hounds and introducing too much tension in light weather. I must admit I have always suffered from a little bit of luff starvation just below the hound and wondered if this was caused by the pre-bend. Booms I choose lightweight jib booms (Easton arrow shaft - 2515. 25/64ths inch diameter, 15 thousandths of an inch wall thickness) from Sailsetc having used one before and will use off cuts of the mast for main boom and reuse my current goosenecks and fittings. Again the thought here is to go for the lightest section on the bow requiring the lightest counterweight although we are only talking about 7gms. Fittings I use a roller bearing gooseneck for the A rig and standard gooseneck for B and C. I use aero-foiled spreaders but they are hung on wire so easily adjustable. Shrouds run through a hole in the front of the mast with a bowsie stopper inside. I use a sailsetc cunningham ring on all spars as my Housemartin sails have both luff tension and cunningham eye. Sails As I mentioned above, I use Housemartin sails and have just bought a new A set for this year. Competition wise I see that BG and Sailboat RC (current world champions) with their moulded sail seem to be the sails of choice for championships but that could just be the sailors who use them. Thankfully I see members at Emsworth who have both sails so will be able to make a good comparison between all three. Of course there are several other sailmakers but these are the three World championship winning brands that have caught my eye from the available data at the moment, however I am new to the game and have probably missed lots. What's the best package overall Current observation suggests a SailboatRC package as they have won the last two worlds and dominated other events but Britpop with the BG rig have dominated in numbers and successes since 2011. Who will dominate at the Worlds in Croatia next year? SailboatRC are pioneered moulded sails and now have a tried and tested design and who knows what else they have on the cards. I look forward to see how other sail designers and builders respond. Jib Geometry. It's all in the geometry. How many of you have the problem of the jib boom flicking out one side or the other in calm conditions, making it impossible to sail. I have encountered this problem since I launched my first boat boat. It was only in a discussion with Dave Potter last week that I found the solution. It's all in the geometry. See the picture below. The diagram on the right has two diagrams. The left shows the configuration I used last year. My leech line had caught around the spreaders a few times I thought it best to use a line and tie it forward at the head of the jib not realising that this impacts the geometry and caused the boom to kick out one way or the other when there is little or no wind. If you want to see this in action, set the headsail up loosen your current leech line and tie a loose leach line onto the end of the jib boom. Make sure the line is long enough to reach the entry point on the mast. Put the luff and leach line under some tension. First move the top of the leech line to the right of the mast (i.e. aft) by an inch or so as set up in the picture and you should see the jib boom pull into the centreline of the boat. Now move the leech line in the opposite direction, forward of the mast and you should see the jib boom move as far away from the centreline as it can. Talking to Dave Potter, he told me that he and Deve Creed solved the problem by tying the jib luff and leech line to a self tapping screw thus ensuring the leech line and jib luff tension line intersect the mast at exactly the same point allowing the jib boom to rotate freely in any direction I pondered this for a while and came up with another solution using wire and a bowsie. The wire leech line and jib luff eye are attached to a bowsie inside the mast. They exit the mast and the jib luff can be hooked onto an eye fashioned out of the wire. Both enter the mast at the same point setting up the correct geometry. Fingers crossed this will mean the jib boom will swing easily from one side to the other in calm conditions. I will let you know at the end of the week if it works Réflexions initiales sur les plates-formes Depuis quelque temps maintenant, j'ai réfléchi à la plate-forme à acheter. Voici mes réflexions et décisions actuelles sur un gréement pour le nouveau bateau. Mâts Pour autant que je sache, il y a 3 tubes et un design fendu au choix. Sailsetc groovy et tube, Housemartin tube et Pierre Gonnet tube. J'ai actuellement des espars et des voiles Housemartin et je suis très satisfait de leurs performances. J'ai acheté un kit de gréement A, B et C l'année dernière et ils étaient tous compétitifs, mais j'ai lu que les mâts PG sont plus légers avec une flexibilité similaire et ayant navigué sur des yachts, sachez que le poids en altitude peut faire toute la différence dans une côtelette, donc je suis je vais en essayer quelques-uns et comparer les poids et la rigidité et voir comment ils fonctionnent. Après une discussion avec Potter Solutions, nous avons décidé que 15 mm ou moins est le pré-cintrage optimal pour la plate-forme A. Plus et vous pouvez facilement déformer le longeron en comprimant le mât lorsque vous retirez le précintrage avec le hauban arrière, ainsi qu'introduire un virage incontrôlé entre les barres de flèche et les chiens et introduire trop de tension par temps léger. Je dois admettre que j'ai toujours souffert d'un petit manque de guindant juste en dessous du chien et je me demandais si cela était causé par le pré-cintrage. Flèches J'ai choisi des flèches de flèche légères (arbre de flèche Easton - 2515. Diamètre de 25/64 pouces, épaisseur de paroi de 15 millièmes de pouce) de Sailsetc en ayant utilisé une auparavant et j'utiliserai des coupes du mât pour la flèche principale et réutiliserai mes cols de cygne et accessoires actuels . Encore une fois, l'idée ici est d'opter pour la section la plus légère de l'arc nécessitant le contrepoids le plus léger. Raccords J'utilise un col de cygne à roulement à rouleaux pour la plate-forme A et un col de cygne standard pour B et C. J'utilise des épandeurs aérodynamiques mais ils sont suspendus à un fil donc facilement réglable. Les haubans traversent un trou à l'avant du mât avec un bouchon bowsie à l'intérieur. J'utilise un anneau de cunningham sur tous les espars car mes voiles Housemartin ont à la fois une tension de guindant et un œil de cunningham. Voiles Comme je l'ai mentionné ci-dessus, j'utilise des voiles Housemartin et je viens d'acheter un nouvel ensemble A pour cette année. Côté compétition, je vois que BG et Sailboat RC (actuels champions du monde) avec leur voile moulée semblent être les voiles de choix pour les championnats mais cela pourrait être juste les marins qui les utilisent. Heureusement, je vois des membres à Emsworth qui ont les deux voiles et pourront donc faire une bonne comparaison entre les trois. Bien sûr, il existe plusieurs autres fabricants de voiles, mais ce sont les trois marques gagnantes du championnat du monde qui ont attiré mon attention à partir des données disponibles pour le moment, mais je suis nouveau dans le jeu et j'ai probablement raté beaucoup de choses. Quel est le meilleur forfait dans l'ensemble L'observation actuelle suggère un package SailboatRC car ils ont remporté les deux derniers championnats du monde et dominé d'autres événements, mais Britpop avec le gréement BG a dominé en nombre et en succès depuis 2011. Qui dominera les championnats du monde en Croatie l'année prochaine ? SailboatRC sont des voiles moulées pionnières et ont maintenant un design éprouvé et qui sait ce qu'elles ont d'autre sur les cartes. J'ai hâte de voir comment les autres concepteurs et constructeurs de voiles réagiront. Géométrie de la flèche. Tout est dans la géométrie. Combien d'entre vous ont le problème de la bôme de foc qui sort d'un côté ou de l'autre dans des conditions calmes, rendant la navigation impossible. J'ai rencontré ce problème depuis que j'ai lancé mon premier bateau bateau. Ce n'est que lors d'une discussion avec Dave Potter la semaine dernière que j'ai trouvé la solution. Tout est dans la géométrie. Voir l'image ci-dessous. Le schéma de droite a deux schémas. La gauche montre la configuration que j'ai utilisée l'année dernière. Ma ligne de chute s'était coincée autour des barres de flèche à quelques reprises. est peu ou pas de vent. Si vous voulez voir cela en action, placez la voile d'avant vers le haut, desserrez votre ligne de chute actuelle et attachez une ligne de chute lâche à l'extrémité de la bôme de foc. Assurez-vous que la ligne est assez longue pour atteindre le point d'entrée sur le mât. Mettez le guindant et la ligne de lixiviation sous tension. Déplacez d'abord le haut de la ligne de chute à droite du mât (c'est-à-dire vers l'arrière) d'environ un pouce comme indiqué sur l'image et vous devriez voir la bôme du foc s'enfoncer dans l'axe du bateau. Déplacez maintenant la ligne de chute dans la direction opposée, vers l'avant du mât et vous devriez voir la bôme s'éloigner le plus possible de l'axe central. En parlant à Dave Potter, il m'a dit que lui et Deve Creed avaient résolu le problème en attachant le guindant et la ligne de chute à une vis autotaraudeuse, garantissant ainsi que la ligne de chute et la ligne de tension de guindant coupent le mât exactement au même point permettant au foc flèche pour tourner librement dans n'importe quelle direction J'y ai réfléchi pendant un moment et j'ai trouvé une autre solution en utilisant du fil de fer et un nœud papillon. La ligne de chute et l'œillet de guindant de foc sont attachés à un bowsie à l'intérieur du mât. Ils sortent du mât et le guindant de foc peut être accroché sur un oeil façonné dans le fil. Les deux entrent dans le mât au même point en définissant la géométrie correcte. Les doigts croisés, cela signifie que la flèche oscillera facilement d'un côté à l'autre dans des conditions calmes. je vous dirai en fin de semaine si ca marche Plus de réflexions sur les plates-formes La clé de la configuration est de faire en sorte que la courbure du mât corresponde à la courbe du guindant principal. Si vous lisez les articles de Brad Gibson sur le réglage et voyez les dernières interviews avec New York Central Park MYC, vous entendrez à quel point sa configuration est précise. 1 Il n'y a pas d'utilisation intensive du Cunningham 2 Ses voiles sont très lisses 3 Le pied principal est réglé à la même profondeur pour toutes les conditions 4 Le pataras sera ajusté de 2 à 4 mm uniquement en fonction de la plage de conditions. 5 Il suit ses propres mesures pour commencer la configuration. Le message clé ici est d'avoir une configuration fixe. BG pratique ce jeu depuis longtemps et connaît une configuration précise pour aller vite. Nous pouvons raccourcir l'apprentissage de l'expérience en suivant les notes de configuration sur son site Web ou du concepteur du bateau sur lequel vous naviguez. Le Kantun a un ensemble similaire de numéros de configuration et d'instructions du concepteur qui sont livrés avec leurs bateaux. D'autres concepteurs ont fait de même. N'oubliez pas que si, lorsque votre bateau est sur le côté, vous rencontrez des problèmes avec des points durs sur le guindant de la grand-voile qui doivent être supprimés par un Cunningham excessif, vous devrez alors modifier les variables à votre disposition pour vous débarrasser des points durs. Elles sont: Le mât est debout Angle de barre de flèche (et vérifiez qu'ils sont symétriques, c'est-à-dire que votre mât n'a pas tourné) Bélier de mât Tension du linceul Adoucir ou durcir le précintrage Si vous rencontrez toujours un problème, vérifiez que le mât est droit jusqu'au point de précintrage, votre précintrage est progressif plutôt qu'un virage brusque. Bien sûr, si vos voiles sont vieilles, elles se sont peut-être étirées et il sera difficile d'obtenir un résultat parfait. Je vais vous montrer mon installation ci-dessous. J'aurai un gréement PG de Potter Solutions avec des voiles Housemartin. Les paramètres sont de vous savez où. Vous pourriez avoir l'impression à ce stade que je suis un fan de BG. C'est parce qu'il a rassemblé toutes les informations de configuration pertinentes sur son site Web et que c'est le meilleur que j'ai vu lors de mes voyages sur Internet, mais similaire à Kantun. Il a également le design le plus proche d'un BritPOP disponible (Alternative) pour la construction de maisons que j'ai. Pour ceux qui s'intéressent aux différences de poids du mât, il existe une différence de 20 g entre le Housemartin et le longeron PG. J'ai entendu dire que Sailsetc sparscome quelque part entre les deux. Les poids étaient de 99 et 79 g. Je n'ai pas mesuré la rigidité, mais je suis sûr que quelqu'un l'a fait. Ils se sentent tous les deux plutôt bien. Le précintrage est de 15 mm sur 600 mm sur le rig A et de 40 mm sur le rig B avec un sur le rig C. Les plates-formes A et B sont arrivées avec une marque claire sur chacune indiquant le point exact où le précintrage a commencé. Après avoir balisé à l'aide des dimensions du plan du bateau, j'ai posé le mât sur une longue table. Utilisez quelques blocs roses de sailsetc (voir photo) ou quelque chose de similaire pour vous assurer que les trous sont dans la bonne position. Pour commencer, j'ai installé l'un des blocs roses et aligné le mât de manière à ce que le précintrage soit exactement à la verticale de la table. Je pourrais alors percer le trou de l'étai et tout aligner en sachant que chaque trou serait aligné en avant et en arrière ou perpendiculaire dans le cas des barres de flèche. Le col de cygne est collé avec de la superglue avant perçage et fixation avec une coupe de carrés de matériel de patch de pont sous le bas du col de cygne. La flèche a juste besoin de percer de la même manière que ci-dessus. Utilisez les blocs de forage roses pour aligner le pré-cintrage avec les trous pour la flèche, les haubans, les barres de flèche et le col de cygne. Pensée du jour - Finir les rigs Il ne reste plus qu'à couper le mât à la bonne longueur, l'adapter au bateau, ajouter le pataras et le foc puis finir les extrémités des haubans. Pour couper le mât à la bonne longueur, j'ai utilisé un tube factice inséré dans le trou du mât et j'ai délimité les niveaux de pont inférieur et supérieur et la position où je voulais le col de cygne et la bande de limite inférieure. Cela ne doit pas être inférieur à 60 mm au-dessus du niveau du pont inférieur, mais sur l'alternative, il est d'environ 74 mm. Ensuite, je mesure juste de la limite inférieure sur le mât réel au bas avec le mât factice et coupe. Super collé la fixation de la tête et du talon du mât (une fois le mât coupé à la bonne longueur) pour qu'ils ne bougent pas. Ensuite, j'ai mis le mât dans le bateau, j'ai attaché le foc et le pataras et j'ai mis le mât droit à la râteau sur le plan. Après, j'ai fixé les ferrures aux extrémités des haubans et fixé les ridoirs au bateau. Le gréement a été légèrement tendu pour que la voile principale puisse être montée et le gréement réglé. Un dernier travail consiste à trouver un moyen d'arrêter la rotation accidentelle du mât. Le conseil est d'utiliser le col de cygne. Malheureusement, les cols de cygne que j'utilise ne bloquent pas tout à fait le mât en place, je vais donc devoir trouver une autre solution. J'ai coupé un pouce de section de mât puis Coupez-le en deux et collez-le sur le bas du mât avec deux attaches de câble épaisses pour empêcher la compression de la section collée. De cette façon, je verrouille le mât au centre et je le pousse également légèrement vers l'avant dans le pas de mât, ce qui donne un meilleur équilibre au bateau. Il y a quelques photos de la plate-forme B terminée ci-dessous Notez que je n'utilise plus le serre-câbles comme pivot de foc car ils n'arrêtaient pas de casser, je l'ai donc remplacé par une pince de bôme Sailsetc et j'attache la ligne à la bôme avec un crochet d'écoute. Je suis maintenant dans une position où je peux lever et abaisser la flèche. Picture showing roller bearing gooseneck with jackstay line and tape to secure mast at deck and step level Airofoil spreaders. I have reverted back to brass tube (bought off Amazon) and make my own using .45mm wire to make the ends. Masthead detail Sideview of roller bearing kicker and cunningham ring above band which I have since discarded A rather ugly solution to the jib attachment to the mast. The principle was the lung and leech line emerge from the same point on the mastI now use a simple wire hook into the mast with both luff and topping lift attached to it. Simple an effective. Sails are tied on with fine thread. Mine comes from a Ford factory from the 70's where it was used to make seats. It does not shrink and I only have 4900 yards left on the spool. Some of my ideas are a bit whacky. I tried attaching the tack line to a cable ties. It lasted an hour before the line cut through the plastic. Now I just tie the cord to the boom First version of a tidy leach line with the elastic inside the boom. The line ran through a hole in the boom but kept fraying. Now I use a Sailsetc boom end fitting which does the job nicely Balast and balancing weights for the boat and B and C rigs Pink alignment blocks for drilling holes on the mast and boom Next Section Add the sails

Avant un événement Déterminez quel est votre objectif en voile Connaître ton règles et tactiques de course Gérez votre investissement avec prudence entretien de bateaux Naviguez vite avec le droit réglage et configuration du bateau Connaître vos radiocommandes Efficace pratique du bateau Assurez une configuration cohérente en utilisant listes de contrôle Savoir comment le la météo t'aidera Utile les références

Fitting the sails onto the rig Se connecter Setting sails on the rig A conversation with my brother the other day got me thinking about how the IOM rig should work. We both used to sail on dinghies and yachts. Mostly we would sail on fractional rig yachts where the bottom of the mast was controlled by the shrouds, spreaders and runners. The bend was fixed up to the hounds and you increased or decreased that bend, using the runner, however once set the mast was fairly rigid. The trick was to have the mast work for you above the hounds on the un-supported section of the fractional rig. The ideal scenario went like this. If you hit a gust the top of the mast head would bend, flattening the upper part of the mainsail and opening the leech so the boat could accelerate into the gust. As soon as the wind eased the mast would straighten and power was restored. We once sailed on a boat which had the balance of the rig exactly right. It meant you could carry more sail in greater breeze and gave a massive competitive advantage. The boat won a lot of key offshore and inshore races. However the IOM rig is between a fractional and a masthead rig on a yacht where the forestay and backstay meet at the top of the mast and the bend and therefore mainsail leech control is managed entirely through adjustment of the runners. Of course you have other adjustments on yachts which are important, eg mainsail foot, cunningham, etc, all of which have to be adjusted through the wind ranges, but in this article I am just focusing on mast bend and impact on the mainsail. The IOM rig is somewhere between a masthead and fractional rigged yacht. .Our forestay sits above the hounds with a backstay at the top of the mast. The geometry is set up so that with prebend build into the spar, straightened out by the backstay, tension is put into the luff and leech line of the headsail. The position of the jib swivel line to the deck ensures that most of that tension goes down the luff of the jib and not the leech line. Mast bend and therefore mainsail leech shape is controlled throughout the mast ram, spreader rake and tension on the backstay. Jib leech tension is controlled by the leech line. We want a rig setup that will give a little in puffs so the boat accelerates and drives, rather than heels and stall. So how can that be achieved. If you read all the key advice on rig setup, you tighten your shroud tension just enough to stop the leeward shroud going soft when upwind. This allows the mast to flex a little in puffs providing acceleration. If the mast is too rigid, airflow will stall and the boat will not accelerate in the puff. Start your boats setup with the boat pointing as though on a run. Trim the back stay so the mast is straight fore and aft. Set the mainsail foot to a depth of 15mm or whatever your sailplane suggests. Set up the kicker tension so the mainsail leech is slightly twisted with the top batten just outside parallel to the main boom. Check both gybes to make sure the mast is straight vertically. The twist should be the same on each gybe. Then point the boat as though on a beat. I assume you have set the rake as per the boat plan using a measuring stick or tape measure. Our goal is to set the mainsail so the top batten is parallel to the centreline of the boom by adjusting the backstay and mast ram. Once set up there should be little need for change through the wind ranges other than 1mm tweaks on the backstay. In a recent zoom meeting with Brad Gibson for the Central Park MYG in the US, Brad talked about adjusting the backstay by plus or minus 2mm. I don't know about you, but in the past I was slightly more aggressive about the use of the backstay. Now I understand more about the precision of the setup and know what the top guys do, I am more careful. With any luck if you have done all this you will have a perfect looking rig, and if you have not overdone the shroud tension, the rig will work for you in the gusts. There is enough information available on rig setup up on the web, that you should be able to achieve the right setting first time and more important, recreate that setting every time you go sailing. Here are some pictures to show the impact of 1 mm changes on the B rig backstay. Start from the bottom Mettre les voiles sur le gréement Une conversation avec mon frère l'autre jour m'a fait réfléchir à la façon dont la plate-forme de l'OIM devrait fonctionner. Nous avions tous les deux l'habitude de naviguer sur des dériveurs et des yachts. La plupart du temps, nous naviguions sur des yachts à gréement fractionné où le bas du mât était contrôlé par les haubans, les barres de flèche et les lisses. Le virage était fixé jusqu'aux chiens et vous augmentiez ou diminuiez ce virage à l'aide de la glissière, mais une fois réglé, le mât était assez rigide. L'astuce consistait à faire travailler le mât pour vous au-dessus des chiens sur la section non soutenue du gréement fractionné. Le scénario idéal s'est déroulé ainsi. Si vous frappez une rafale, le haut de la tête de mât se pliera, aplatissant la partie supérieure de la grand-voile et ouvrant la chute pour que le bateau puisse accélérer dans la rafale. Dès que le vent faiblirait, le mât se redressait et le courant était rétabli. Une fois, nous avons navigué sur un bateau dont l'équilibre du gréement était parfaitement équilibré. Cela signifiait que vous pouviez transporter plus de voiles dans une plus grande brise et offrait un énorme avantage concurrentiel. Le bateau a remporté de nombreuses courses clés au large et en eaux côtières. Cependant, le gréement IOM se situe entre un gréement fractionné et un gréement de tête de mât sur un yacht où l'étai et le pataras se rencontrent en haut du mât et le virage et donc le contrôle de la chute de la grand-voile est entièrement géré par le réglage des patins. Bien sûr, vous avez d'autres réglages importants sur les yachts, par exemple le pied de grand-voile, le cunningham, etc., qui doivent tous être ajustés en fonction des plages de vent, mais dans cet article, je me concentre uniquement sur la courbure du mât et l'impact sur la grand-voile. Le gréement de l'IOM se situe quelque part entre une tête de mât et un yacht à gréement fractionné. .Notre étai repose au-dessus des chiens avec un pataras en haut du mât. La géométrie est configurée de sorte qu'avec le précintrage intégré au longeron, redressé par le pataras, la tension soit mise dans le guindant et la ligne de chute de la voile d'avant. La position de la ligne d'émerillon du foc sur le pont garantit que la majeure partie de cette tension descend le guindant du foc et non la ligne de chute. La courbure du mât et donc la forme de la chute de la grand-voile sont contrôlées tout au long du vérin de mât, du râteau de la barre de flèche et de la tension sur le pataras. La tension de la chute du foc est contrôlée par la ligne de chute. Nous voulons une configuration de gréement qui donnera un peu de bouffées pour que le bateau accélère et roule, plutôt que gîtes et décrochage. Alors comment y parvenir. Si vous lisez tous les conseils clés sur la configuration du gréement, vous resserrez la tension de votre hauban juste assez pour empêcher le hauban sous le vent de se ramollir au près. Cela permet au mât de fléchir un peu dans les bouffées offrant une accélération. Si le mât est trop rigide, le flux d'air va caler et le bateau n'accélérera pas dans la bouffée. Commencez la configuration de votre bateau avec le bateau pointant comme s'il courait. Coupez l'étai arrière pour que le mât soit droit d'avant en arrière. Réglez le pied de grand-voile à une profondeur de 15 mm ou selon ce que suggère votre planeur. Réglez la tension du kicker de manière à ce que la chute de la grand-voile soit légèrement tordue avec la latte supérieure juste à l'extérieur parallèle à la bôme principale. Vérifiez les deux empannages pour vous assurer que le mât est droit verticalement. La torsion doit être la même sur chaque empannage. Puis pointez le bateau comme sur un battement. Je suppose que vous avez réglé le râteau selon le plan du bateau à l'aide d'un bâton de mesure ou d'un ruban à mesurer. Notre objectif est de régler la grand-voile de manière à ce que la latte supérieure soit parallèle à l'axe de la bôme en ajustant le pataras et le vérin de mât. Une fois installé, il devrait y avoir peu de besoin de changement dans les plages de vent autres que des ajustements de 1 mm sur le pataras. Lors d'une récente réunion de zoom avec Brad Gibson pour le Central Park MYG aux États-Unis, Brad a parlé d'ajuster le pataras de plus ou moins 2 mm. Je ne sais pas pour vous, mais dans le passé j'étais un peu plus agressif sur l'utilisation du pataras. Maintenant que je comprends mieux la précision de la configuration et que je sais ce que font les meilleurs gars, je suis plus prudent. Avec un peu de chance, si vous avez fait tout cela, vous aurez un gréement parfait, et si vous n'avez pas exagéré la tension du hauban, le gréement fonctionnera pour vous dans les rafales. Il y a suffisamment d'informations disponibles sur la configuration du gréement sur le Web pour que vous puissiez obtenir le bon réglage du premier coup et, plus important encore, recréer ce réglage à chaque fois que vous naviguez. Voici quelques photos pour montrer l'impact des changements de 1 mm sur le pataras du gréement B. Commencer par le bas Commencez par le bas et travaillez l'ensemble d'images. Ils montrent la pré-courbure intégrée au mât puis l'impact progressif de jusqu'à 5 mm d'étai arrière supplémentaire. Vous pouvez voir l'effet le mieux sur l'adoucissement de la lixiviation. Essayez ceci sur votre propre bateau et voyez à quoi ressemble votre gréement. Ignorez le réglage du foc car la chute est trop serrée et la bôme pourrait être quelque peu relâchée. La prochaine fois que j'essaierai cela, j'installerai l'appareil photo sur un trépied afin que l'angle ne change pas entre les images. J'obtiendrai un ensemble similaire de prises de vue pour la plate-forme A demain. Configuration du rig - L'impact de 5 mm sur le rig A Juste un court article pour refléter mon jeu avec le gréement A et mes réflexions sur les configurations pour différentes conditions de vent et de clapot. Voir les photos ci-dessous. Bien sûr, dans une brise, le look de la voile sera légèrement différent. Un gréement configuré avec une profondeur de pied de 15 mm et un mât droit. Configuration pour l'eau agitée. Il y aura une perte de torsion dans une brise légère pour une accélération sur les vagues La photo montre comment, en partant d'un mât droit, quel est l'impact d'ajouter 5 mm à l'étai arrière sur un gréement A. Le pataras de plus de 10 mm provoque une distorsion de la voile Next Section Weigh and check measure

Weighing and check measuring the IOM Peser et vérifier mesurer le bateau Peser le bateau avec le gréement A avec tous les accessoires comme pour naviguer avec le pont patchs posé librement sur le bateau. il doit peser 4kg Parcourez les règles de classe et vérifiez mesurer le bateau. Setting the boat to float on its lines What you need to know Bring your fully rigged boat up to weight with correctors Float the boat on a calm day on a fish pond, pond, or deep bath and set correctors to put boat on its lines Check measure against class rules The process Weigh and check measure Weight the fully rigged boat dry. Add two equal weight correctors on either side of the fin box at its centre to make up the weight of the boat to 4 kg . Float the boat and check to see it sits on its lines. You may have to adjust the position of the correctors. Once the boat is on its lines, mark and bond the lead corrector in with silicon sealer. I have heard that some people put a small amount of lead in the radio pot so they can make adjustments to the corrector weight if they change a fitting. Pull a copy of the class rules from the HERE Check measure as much as you can. The one measurement you may have difficulty is with the overall length and depth from water line to bottom of fin. This is done in a special tank. Click here for Measurement and Certification Procedure Thought for the day - Getting the most out of correctors Given that we spend a lot of effort getting grams of weight off the foredeck and the mast to reduce pitching moment in a chop, I started thinking about how best to build the correctors. I am looking at roughly 400 gms of lead which I want as close to the centre of the boat fore and aft, but also as low down as possible. I looked at buying lumps of lead but ended up buying lead shot which I could fashion into shape with epoxy. My goal is to make correctors as flat as possible so they sit in the bottom of the boat. The picture shows crudely the difference flat correctors might make. Small I grant but a difference none the less. The top image shows the impact of square lumps of lead at the fin box when the boat is heeled over. The bottom picture show a flattened corrector. The arrows represent the centre of mass for each corrector. The flattened version has a centre of mass lower than the square corrector and in theory when the boat is at an angle the flattened corrector provides more righting moment. All these weight changes I have made, are small. 11gms out of the jib boom, 30gms out of the mast and main boom, 200gms out of the hull of the boat, bigger and lower correctors. It all adds up to more righting moment and less pitching moment. There is easy access to the base of the fin box if you take the winch down. It was easy to lay in two strips of velcro on each side of the hull and place the correctors on this. So now they are fixed but moveable. Once you identify the correct balance point you can fix the correctors in permanently. Moulding the correctors using epoxy and lead shot which you can get off eBay. Means you can shape your correctors anyway you like Mettre le bateau à flot sur ses lignes Ce dont vous avez besoin savoir Apportez votre bateau entièrement gréé au poids avec des correcteurs Faites flotter le bateau par temps calme sur un étang à poissons, un étang ou un bain profond et réglez des correcteurs pour mettre le bateau sur ses lignes Vérifier la mesure par rapport aux règles de classe Le processus Peser et vérifier la mesure Pesez le bateau entièrement gréé à sec. Ajouter deux correcteurs de poids égal de chaque côté de la boîte d'aileron en son centre pour compenser le poids du bateau à 4kg. Faites flotter le bateau et vérifiez qu'il repose sur ses lignes. Vous devrez peut-être ajuster la position des correcteurs. Une fois que le bateau est sur ses lignes, marquez et collez le correcteur de plomb avec un scellant au silicone. J'ai entendu dire que certaines personnes mettent une petite quantité de plomb dans le pot radio afin de pouvoir ajuster le poids du correcteur s'ils changent un raccord. Tirez une copie des règles de classe de ICI Vérifiez la mesure autant que vous le pouvez. La seule mesure que vous pourriez avoir des difficultés concerne la longueur et la profondeur totales de la ligne de flottaison au bas de la nageoire. Cela se fait dans un réservoir spécial. Cliquez ici pour la procédure de mesure et de certification Pensée du jour - Tirer le meilleur parti des correcteurs Étant donné que nous dépensons beaucoup d'efforts pour retirer des grammes de poids du pont avant et du mât pour réduire le moment de tangage dans un clapot, j'ai commencé à réfléchir à la meilleure façon de construire les correcteurs. Je regarde environ 400 g de plomb que je veux le plus près du centre du bateau à l'avant et à l'arrière, mais aussi le plus bas possible. J'ai envisagé d'acheter des morceaux de plomb, mais j'ai fini par acheter de la grenaille de plomb que je pouvais façonner avec de l'époxy. Mon objectif est de rendre les correcteurs aussi plats que possible afin qu'ils reposent au fond du bateau. L'image montre grossièrement la différence que les correcteurs plats peuvent faire. Petit je l'accorde mais une différence quand même. L'image du haut montre l'impact de morceaux de plomb carrés sur la boîte d'aileron lorsque le bateau est incliné. L'image du bas montre un correcteur aplati. Les flèches représentent le centre de masse pour chaque correcteur. La version aplatie a un centre de masse plus bas que le correcteur carré et en théorie, lorsque le bateau est incliné, le correcteur aplati fournit plus de moment de redressement. Tous ces changements que j'ai faits, sont petits. 11gms hors de la bôme de foc, 30gms hors du mât et de la bôme principale, 200gms hors de la coque du bateau, correcteurs plus gros et plus bas. Tout cela donne plus de moment de redressement et moins de moment de tangage. Il y a un accès facile à la base de la boîte d'ailerons si vous descendez le treuil. Il était facile de poser deux bandes de velcro de chaque côté de la coque et de placer les correcteurs sur celle-ci. Alors maintenant, ils sont fixes mais mobiles. Moulage des correcteurs à l'aide d'époxy et de grenaille de plomb que vous pouvez obtenir sur eBay. Cela signifie que vous pouvez façonner vos correcteurs comme vous le souhaitez Pensée du jour - Installez les correcteurs. Il y a un accès facile à la base de la boîte d'ailerons si vous descendez le treuil. Il était facile de poser deux bandes de velcro de chaque côté de la coque et de placer les correcteurs sur celle-ci. Alors maintenant, ils sont fixes mais mobiles. Moulage des correcteurs à l'aide d'époxy et de grenaille de plomb que vous pouvez obtenir sur eBay. Cela signifie que vous pouvez façonner vos correcteurs comme vous le souhaitez. Derniers travaux avant le lancement Le bateau est entièrement équipé, les trois gréements sont configurés à l'aide du bâton de mesure du gréement et des paramètres de départ notés sur ma liste de contrôle. L'émetteur de radiocommande a été vérifié en interne pour s'assurer qu'aucun fil ne touche les cardans pour les écoutes et les manettes de gouvernail. Tout contact peut créer un comportement aléatoire très étrange sur les cardans. Le réglage de la radio sur l'émetteur est la liste de contrôle. Le poids du bateau a été contrôlé pour les 3 gréements et correcteurs installés sur les gréements B et C. Ce sont les inserts de mât de 10 g que j'ai achetés chez Sailsetc. Parce que j'ai économisé 20 g sur le rig A, je peux utiliser 20 g de moins de correcteurs sur le rig B et C. J'ai également collé autour du mât au niveau du pont inférieur pour arrêter tout mouvement latéral et j'ai ajouté une forme de talon modifiée pour arrêter la rotation du mât afin que les barres de flèche ne se désalignent pas lors du lancement à l'aide du mât. Voir photo du bas. Le poids total du bateau avec chaque gréement est compris entre 4004 et 6 g. Les 3 patchs de pont sont en place, elle est donc prête à partir pour sa première sortie lundi qui se trouve être mon anniversaire. Un bon moment pour éclabousser le bateau. Les prochaines étapes consistent à mettre sur pied un programme d'entraînement et de voile à préparer pour les championnats nationaux et toutes les épreuves indicatrices. Quelques images ci-dessous.

Craig Richards Tuning guide (Page 1) My Thanks to Craig Richards to allow me to copy his guide that he posted on facebook following his win at the 2023 Global Championships at Fleetwood . Mainsheet bridle: The mainsheet bridal is not your friend. It can burn out winches if incorrectly set and if that does not spoil your race then it has sneaky ways of snagging your mainsheet, which it will always do at the bottom mark when you are in the lead! I think I had one of the loosest mainsheet bridle setups at the Globals. I will show detail later of what the bridal looks like with each of the rigs, but its not something I adjust. It stays the same for all rigs. Mine looks like this: The first snag is probably only on the older boats. The bridle eyes were originally a bit larger and not always screwed all the way into the hull. Because they stood slightly proud, the mainsheet could loop around them and snag. This could be fixed by tacking away if lucky, but often the boat will stall head to wind and it is very difficult to recover from quickly. If you don't realise what has happened and continue to sheet in and hope for the best, the winch is stalled and may overheat etc. The fix is to screw them in all the way and fill the recess with epoxy glue. This is about as close as I will ever sheet in. There is never less than about 5mm between the bridle eye and the boom fitting. The starboard bridle line is slack, so this is as high as you can get the bridle eye off the deck. There is almost no vertical mainsheet tension so the winch has very little load and fine adjustments to the sheeting angle are possible without affecting the mainsails leech tension. The port bowsie should be hard against the deck eye, but I mucked with it for demo purposes and have not fixed to my preference yet. With a straight run for the jib sheet, it can get a bit snagged against the mast. Yes, jib fairlead is glued as well. I'll do a section on each rig, but the further forward you move the jib boom sheeting eye the further the jib will go out on the run. I've set mine so that both the main and jib reach 90 degrees at the same time on the runs Sheeting: This is how I run my sheets. It's not optimum from a friction point of view, but there is a tradeoff between reliability and the jib setting slightly differently on port and starboard tacks. If I only use the front jib sheeting deck eye then the jib boom goes slightly further out on the starboard side. It's a small amount, which is reduced by going through both eyes ... at least I think it does. I put the jib sheet through the port bridle deck eye to keep it away from the mast. In light conditions the thin yellow line (0.20mm) gets snagged between the boom gooseneck and the deck. It's only slightly sticky, but enough to stop the jib going out on the runs occasionally. Its not necessary for stronger conditions, but I stick to one way of routing all my sheets just to keep life simple. The A rig: I'll be posting some measurements, so just want to show what my masthead crane looks like as some of them sit a bit proud of the plastic mast insert. I think the standard sail templates have too much luff curve. I have a 'custom' luff curve from Catsails that has about 2mm less mid mast. I run the top of the sail at the bottom of the silver band and the attachment point to a second hole in the mast crane. I think the top of the sail behaves better with this setup. I run the mast gate as far back as possible and never touch it. It stays like this for all rigs. The DF seems to want as much aft rake as possible. So I rake it as far as it will go. I would rather take luff curve out of the front of the sail than bend the mast further. Too much mast bend means you need more vang on the beat, but this can lead to too tight a mainsail leech on the runs Mast Rake: With no Jib Forestay tension I want the mast curve to match the front of the main sail as far as possible. The curve I settled on was to tighten the backstay until the second attachment point from the bottom was just behind the mast (NB, remember I have about 2mm less luff curve than standard). This was easily repeatable without needing rulers etc. I then marked the backstay adjustment lines and always adjust straight to this point. I never change the backstay again except at the very top of A rig I might add a mm or two. The measurement from behind the bow bumper to the front hole in the masthead crane is 1140mm. This may seem further back than the rigging guides, but remember there is no forestay tension at this point. With a flat edge behind the mast, the mast curve is only 3-4mm, which is less than I was expecting.

After 6 months experimenting, I think I am now at my final configuration which allows me to sail with the main boom parallel on all rigs. Through my whole dinghy sailing career I wanted to sail with the main boom parallel to the deck. It looks right and usually fast. Mast rake is up to 2 degrees and my challenge was getting a fin in the right position to work with this rig. The goal was to sail with a perfectly balanced boat with a hint of lee helm so when I am looking for wind shifts, the boat is sailing as fast as it can upwind. With the previous weather helm I had tended to lose speed when I looked up the course. I am using a Craig Smith fin with a Robot bulb. Fin Leading edge of top of fin to line perpendicular from bow (excluding the bumper). 500mm (measured parallel to the waterline). I have since moved this to 515mm (23/11/2024) to try and get the boat to drive off the jib instead of trying to luff up all the time. Fin leading edge is exactly 88 degrees (now 90 degrees as I moved the top of the fin back) to waterline (tiny rake) I had got this to vertical but the boat was not quite balanced right. Bulb angle to waterline 2 degrees. Bottom of bulb is 2mm above max draft Hull to top of bulb down leading edge of fin. 330mm Bow to tip of fin where it enters bulb 640mm. C of G of bulb is 5mm forward of leading edge of fin Fin weight. I can't give you the exact weight but it is lighter than anything I have seen. Rudder Depth of rudder 220. Very thin chord but no experience of stalling. I have since tried this down. Shortened the rudder by 15mm and trimmed 5mm off the back Rig Top of boom band to step 135mm A rig mast rake 1040 (bow behind bumper to 900 mm mark on mast measured from top of foredeck.) My next step is to work up a set of sails for open water. More on that as the summer progresses assuming we eventually get summer weather. In the build up to the worlds I settled on Sailboat RC sails and went for the max depth A Rig sails which I have to say have delivered good speed. I change the mast prebend a little bit and moved it further down the mast which made a significant difference in mast stiffness to the point I had to rake the spreaders back a few degrees more. The blog covers events at the worlds The only niggle with the boat this year was i the fin is still too far forward as I still get occasional weather helm and this can slow the boat in waves in a breeze so I am working on moving the top back (See above comments in brackets) but leaving the bulb in the same position

How I built a male plug Construire la prise Le processus est le meilleur expliqué par Brad Gibson, dans sa vidéo Construire le bouchon de coque mais il y a quelques nuances que je couvre ci-dessous: Cliquez sur n'importe quelle image pour agrandir l'image. 1 Build the styrofoam hull What you need A measured 1.1m flat board to lay the styrofoam frames onto. 2 off 600x600x100mm sheets of styrofoam. Ebay shop UHU POR glue to stick paper onto styrofoam. Amazon Hot wire cutter. Amazon Balsa wood planks for sanding the styrofoam 300*50*3mm and 400*20*5. EBay shop Builders square 600mm rule 5 minute epoxy to stick foam frames together. East Coast Fibreglass Sandpaper - Dry, various grades, course to fine, wet and dry 150 down to 2500 Epoxy resin - slow cure gives about 30mins of work time Glass to cover foam - 2 layers of 135 E cloth and 1 layer of 125 S cloth as the outer skin. East Coast Fibreglass Epoxy micro balloons for filling and for use later on. East Coast Fibreglass 2 pack high build epoxy primer. SML Paints The process The Foam Plug Mark up the board with a centreline and 100mm frame positions and a 50mm and 38mm mm frame positions according to the plan. Mark as accurately as possible and use the builders square to mark the frame lines. Print all the frames onto coloured card and cut out each frame. R ed or black provides good contrast to blue Styrofoam. The colour becomes relevant later. 6 Cut out the red paper frames with a stencil knife. Remember that the plan lines will mark the outside of the hull. You need to account for the thickness of the surface of the plug and the skin of the hull, so I cut the frames two mm inside the plan line and stick to the styrofoam with UHU Por. Cut the centre of the frame out so the epoxy can bond the foam together for a strong plug. Only glue round the edges of the card and avoid putting any glue in the deck area of the frame. Once the frame is stuck on the foam, cut a very narrow slit marking the deck about 2mm wide. The use of the slit will become obvious when you sand in the area of the deck as the gap in the red paper will indicate you are nearly at deck level. When it comes to cutting out the frames on the foam block Bear in mind when cutting out your frame, frame 5 is the largest. When cutting the stern frame, mark an outline for frame 2 and cut that out. Do the same for each frame until the central frame 5 and then do the same form the bow back to frame 5. Do this otherwise you will end up with steps rather than a fair hull. Cut out the frames using a wire cutter. As mentioned above, mark out the next largest frame and cut out. I wedged my wire cutter into a wooden board so I could get a vertical cut all the time. Practice with some samples first to judge how fast you can cut. It is a smelly process so cut the foam out doors. See image 5 above. Carefully cut out the centre of the red card hull frame and a narrow slot on the deck line to help when finding the deck during sanding. To cut the 50mm and 38mm slices I marked a line on my board, held a straight piece of wood on the board and used that as a guide to get the right thickness of frame. When you add all the frames together they should give you a length of 988mm. However, because you have added glue and card to the foam frame the width of the frame will be slightly more so sand down now side of each frame by about a mm until the width is correct. I only found out about this after I had glued all the frames together and ended up with a 1m boat before the bow bumper was fitted. Starting at frame 5 in the middle, glue the frames to the board and themselves, 1 at a time using 5 min epoxy. Remove excess styrofoam with the hot wire and sand coarsely into shape as you go along. Only stick the styrofoam with the epoxy. Only sand with a sanding board and always down the length of the hull to start the fairing process. Once all the frames are in place, bring the surface down with coarse paper until you start to see evidence of the red card. At this point move to the lighter sandpaper and carefully sand until all the red card is just exposed. If you have been patient the hull should be perfectly fair and true. I was amazed at the end result. Use a saw and remove the hull from the build board. Start at the stern and keep the cut well clear of the rising deck. Be careful with the plug as the foam will damage easily. Once removed I supported the hull with bubble wrap. Sand down the deck in the same way as the hull. Sand the radius edges on the corner of the deck as per the plan. The Foredeck Prepare the foredeck frames as before. 15 Glue the frames together on the deck and chamfer the edges slightly to get a tight fit. Protect the hull with cling film so as not to glue the foredeck to the hull at this stage. Glue onto the hull and sand to final finish. Fill any gaps with 5 min epoxy and micro balloon filler. Sand very carefully to finish. Add a post for handling the plug and keep it a max of 50mm from the foredeck. Epoxy and glass the hull Rough cut 3 layers of 4-5oz glass e cloth to wrap completely around the plug. Draw a line along along the keel line on the foam plug and the cloth so you can align the cloth exactly. Support hull post in work bench and apply 3 layers of to 4 -5 oz glass and epoxy resin to hull and decks. Use peel ply as a final layer. Take care with corners and ends to make sure there are no air bubbles. For each layer I apply the glass and epoxy to the hull and then turned the plug over and did the deck. I applied 1 layer after the other until all three are complete. On my second build I left each layer 45 minutes to cure which made it easier putting the next layer on. Paint the plug in epoxy and add the first layer. Use a roller to remove air bubbles and saturate the cloth. Once the first layer is on, carefully paint on more epoxy and add the second layer. Repeat for the third layer. Once you are happy with the result, wrap the hull tightly in peel ply, which will absorb any excess epoxy and prevent an amine finish. Images 19-21. When working with epoxy, make sure you are in a well ventilated area, you are wearing nitril glove and preferably glasses or safety glasses in the event of flicking epoxy in your eyes. Epoxy will start to go stringy after half an hour or so. When it does, throw away what's left, clean tools and gloves with acetone, reload with fresh epoxy and continue the layup. The temperature during layup must be 10 degrees or higher and ideally cure at room temperature or higher. Remove the peel ply and immediately add 2 coats of high build epoxy primer. This will look really ugly but once sanded with wet and dry and polished with t-cut, you will have a beautiful plug on which to mould your hull. Finally apply at least 6 coats of release wax in preparation for laying up the hull. Next Section First Alternative Build

A directory of associations, boat builders, sail makers, fitting suppliers, building, tuning and racing tip sites. Localisation de certains propriétaires de l'OIM à travers le monde I love setting these rigs up. How does the GIZMO work. Whilst I am going to play with my rigs for a few months before I start adding complications, I was very interested to see what the GIZMO does by looking at the rig on a new Grunge from Robot Yachts. There are two pictures below showing the sheeting lines for the main and then the jib and I will describe what the GIZMO does to each. Graham Bantock also has a nice plan showing the layout on the Sailsetc web site. The GIZMO lever is clearly visible bolted to the base of the mast on the starboard side. The cord connected to the top end of the Lever is part of the mainsheet. At the top of the mainsheet post are two plastic balls through which the mainsheet is threaded. When you sheet in, the boom is brought in to the distance of the two balls from the mainsheet post so you cannot oversheet. If you did not have a GIZMO the story stops here. But with the GIZMO you sheet in a bit more and you pull the lever in the direction of the mainsheet. There are 3 cords attached to the other end of the lever. 2 to adjust the main and one to adjust the jib. Here are the pictures of the GIZMO sheeting arrangement and a video below of the sheet movement caused by the rotation of the lever Application of the GIZMO lever tightens the leach of the main slightly at the same times as flattening the foot, at the same time as increasing the cunningham, whilst on the jib, the jib boom is pulled down slightly but the clever bit is as the jib boom is pulled down, the leach line is eased to maintain the same leech twist. In addition the jib is sheeted in slightly. So the overall effect of the LAM is to close the main leech, tighten the jib luff and sheet in slightly and I guess you point higher. Here are two videos that show the LAM in action on land. Of course the key to effectively use of the GIZMO is setting up the rig in the first place. Get this wrong and the GIZMO is of no use to you How do you move the GIZMO using the transmitter. You can either set a toggle switch to engage the GIZMO or use the fine adjustment. The only challenge with the fine adjustment is you might forget it is applied or not. My preference would be for the toggle approach as the GIZMO is either on or off. Bear in mind, if the GIZMO is applied with a large amount of movement on the lever there will be a force applied to the winch and this will burn up battery power. What might need doing on my boat. The immediate things on the current rig are to lower the Jib boom to get the jib closer to the deck The first outing against competition at Abbey Meads lake I always thought this would not be an easy entry into the Marblehead class with oldish sails and rig. Today we sailed in near calm conditions and discovered three immediate problems with the swing rig. Firstly it would not swing easily and for the first few races I was sailing downwind with the sails stuck as though on a beat. Second the jib thought it would be fun to maintain a central position in the light breeze and lastly the main remained inverted after a tack if there was little or no wind. When the wind was up, 4 knots or so the boat took off and I could race competitively. As soon as the wind died the boat stopped. I liked it to being in a boxing match with one hand tied behind your back Results were poor and I retired from the first two races as I could not run downwind with the boom out. I can sort the jib out but believe I may need a light wind rig If I am to sail in these conditions competitively. My thanks to Roger an Peter Stollery for organising/setting up and packing up and Hugh McAdoo for acting as race officer. It was a great day with relatively warm sunshine. At home I got my thinking cap on and took a close look at the mast bearings on and under the deck. I removed the additional cord at the bottom bearing and cleaned the bearings adding some PTFE spray which has no residue and will not attract dirt or dust. The mast is now rotating freely. The jib requires a bit more work. Like an IOM I believe a straight boom should sort the problem and will allow me to lower and adjust the jib height a little as well as moving the end point of the jib boom closer to the sheet fairlead which gives more precise sheeting. Here is a picture of the current jib configuration.. I have a couple of bits of IOM spars to play with. I will use a straight piece of 11mm tube as a yard from the gooseneck and use 10mm lightweight jib boom. Without a Gizmo the rigging is so simple and I will continue with the grommet for sheeting until I eventually fit a Gizmo and replace the booms with carbon. The jib clew will be tied down and a bowsie run to the end of the boom to adjust the foot. What I cannot cure is the mainsail inverting when I tack the boat in calm conditions. The cloth is too stiff and there is too much luff curve. I could apply massive prebend but this will tighten the jib luff and reduce the ability for the jib boom to swing freely. The only cure is a lightweight rig. I will save that one for later Another annoying issue is the mainsheet post is glued in. There is a tube that runs from the deck to the floor which fits a Sailsetc mainsheet post nicely. When I drilled it out, there was an inch of a sailsetc mainsheet post and then an inch and a half of another post. Anyway its all out now and I can fit a new post and be able to adjust the height of the post which is key for the B and C rigs as the booms are higher. Finally got round to reprogramming the RMG Smartwinch to increase the range of the sheet movement so I can get the main boom at 90 degrees to the centreline of the boat. Here is the link to the programming guide on RMG Web site As an aside, the boat came with an unused 2018 set of BG sails for the swing rig so I will get them measured and try them out. There are a couple of events in January/february where I can get a better understanding of how the boat goes. Lastly I weighed the various components of the boat to see how I stood against the current thinking. Swing rig 356gm (OK I think as there is no data. Could use lighter cloth) Hull 924gm (Recommended 900 -1000gms. New Pro boats 800-900gms) Fin/bulb 3.618kg (3.2-3.4kg is recommended so I may have the opportuntiy to lose 200gms but I will wait until I have race data before making any adjustments here. Total 4.898kg (recomendation is 4.5 to 4.8 so I am within this range if I lighten the fin Thats it for now. Lots sorted. I guess that is life with a new second hand boat as you work it up for competitive sailing. Waiting for the bits from Sailsetc to complete the changes and then it is off to Chipstead in January. My schedule will be going up on the results page. There are only 12 Marblehead events so progress and learning might be a bit slow.

Building a hul on a male plug Components for the bow, stern and bulkhead, simply a glass and epoxy sheet laid on a flat board covered in packaging tape which is a great release agent. For the rudder and servo supports, I laid glass over strip wood wrapped in packaging tape to create a light rigid beam to bond across the boat. The hull is laid up in the same way as the plug. Pre cut the cloth and mark a centreline on the hull and the cloth. Allow for an overlap of 1 inch on the foredeck. I used West systems slow cure epoxy resin which in the Summer gave me about half an hours work time. Stop work when the epoxy starts to go stringy and clean your tools with Acetone before mixing a fresh pot of epoxy. I use Nitril gloves which I wash in acetone to remove any sticky epoxy. I also use a full face filter mask although this is not needed. Unlike Polyurethane, epoxy does not smell too bad To begin the layup, paint the hull with epoxy. Add the first layer of E cloth and saturate the glass with epoxy using the aluminium roller. Take your time and make sure you get rid of all air bubbles. I worked on the hull first and then turned the mould over to work on the deck. Allow a 1 inch overlap on the deck and cut any excess cloth away with scissors. Keep a jar of acetone handy to keep the scissors clean. I added more epoxy over the first layer of E cloth prior to adding the second layer. Roll out and finish as per the first layer. Repeat for the final layer of S cloth Wrap the finished hull tightly in Peel ply. When I built the hull in about 75 degrees, I had to mix a second lot of epoxy for the final layer of S cloth as the first lot started curing. Once hardened, remove the peel ply, then add 2 coats of high build epoxy primer. Like the plug the hull will look a mess but will look great once sanded. Sand the hull so you can see through to glass but do not cut any fibres. This will make the hull as light as possible and ready for a top coat of 2 pack polythene which is done after fit out. Fix any faults/holes as necessary. Once happy with hull finish cut through the centreline of the the foredeck and stern deck. Brad suggested a knife but I used a fine cutter on a Dremel. Prise the hull off the mould. This process was much easier than I thought it would be. The whole structure is flexible so once off the mould so put in a jig to keep the designed shape. Terminer le pont principal Dès que la coque est démoulée placez-le directement dans un gabarit pour soutenir la coque. J'ai découpé des cadres dans du contreplaqué à l'aide des plans et les ai fixés sur une solide planche plate Le gabarit sera utilisé pour aligner l'aileron et le gouvernail Cliquez sur n'importe quelle image pour agrandir l'image. Bond the foredeck and stern deck What you need 5 minute epoxy Slow cure epoxy Bent piece of wire as long as the foredeck 1" glass tape Bow and stern plates The process Tape the the top of the previously cut foredeck and stern together with masking tape prior to bonding below. Sand the underside of the foredeck to provide a key for the 1"tape you are about to apply Bond the underneath of cut foredeck and stern deck with 1" fibreglass tape. Allow to cure and remove the masking tape. I put the glass tape underneath the deck and on top but I think you only need to bond underneath and fill the gap on top. To get the tape all the way up the foredeck, wet the tape with epoxy and roll up. Using the wire with a 1" bend at the end, to support the roll and unroll it right (with the hull upside down) to the end of the foredeck. Once unrolled it should sit flat and use the wire to move the tape if necessary. See image 4. Remember to put some peel ply over the top of the tape on top of the deck. Image 6. (This was probably an unnecessary step as I think the tape only needs to go on the underside.) The foredeck will be very strong because you will have 6 layers of glass including the overlay and the 1" tape. Slightly over engineered I think. Repeat the process on the stern deck. I had to put a plate across the stern and the next bridge as I had not finished the original layup properly. Image 8 and 9. Having taped on top of the foredeck I had to re apply 2 coats of high build epoxy and sand down. There is no need to do this if you bond underneath the deck only. I fitted 2 perpendicular end plates onto the jig so I could shape the bow and stern on the hull to be, one, vertical and two, at 90 degrees to the centre line of the boat. Image 10 Trim the bow and stern plate and fit with 5 min epoxy. Spot glue in place initially and then seal and fillet with epoxy and micro balloons. Coller le pont avant et le pont arrière De quoi as-tu besoin 5 minutes époxy Époxy à durcissement lent Morceau de fil courbé aussi long que le pont avant Ruban de verre 1" Plaques de proue et de poupe Le processus Collez le dessus du pont avant et de la poupe préalablement coupés avec du ruban-cache avant de coller en dessous. Voir image 5. Poncez le dessous du pont avant pour fournir une clé pour le ruban de 1" que vous êtes sur le point d'appliquer Collez le dessous du pont avant et du pont arrière coupés avec du ruban en fibre de verre de 1". Image 4. Laisser durcir et retirer le ruban de masquage. J'ai mis le ruban de verre sous le pont et sur le dessus, mais je pense que vous n'avez qu'à coller en dessous et à combler l'espace sur le dessus. Pour obtenir le ruban jusqu'au pont avant, mouillez le ruban avec de l'époxy et enroulez-le. En utilisant le fil avec un coude de 1" à l'extrémité, vous pouvez soutenir le rouleau et le dérouler à droite (avec la coque à l'envers) jusqu'au bout du pont avant. Une fois déroulé, il doit reposer à plat et utiliser le fil pour déplacer le ruban si nécessaire. Voir image 4. N'oubliez pas de mettre un peu de pli pelable sur le dessus de la bande sur le dessus du pont. Image 6. (C'était probablement une étape inutile car je pense que la bande n'a besoin d'aller que sur le dessous.) Le pont avant sera très solide car vous aurez 6 couches de verre, y compris le revêtement et le ruban de 1". Légèrement sur-conçu. Répétez le processus sur le pont arrière. J'ai dû mettre une plaque sur la poupe et le pont suivant car je n'avais pas terminé correctement le drapage d'origine. Images 8 et 9. Après avoir collé le dessus du pont avant, j'ai dû réappliquer 2 couches d'époxy à haute résistance et poncer. Il n'est pas nécessaire de le faire si vous collez uniquement sous le pont. J'ai installé 2 plaques d'extrémité perpendiculaires sur le gabarit afin que je puisse façonner la proue et la poupe de la coque pour qu'elles soient, une, verticale et deux, à 90 degrés par rapport à la ligne médiane du bateau. Image 10 Coupez la proue et la plaque de poupe et installez-les avec de l'époxy 5 min. Placer la colle en place dans un premier temps, puis sceller et fileter avec de l'époxy et des micro-ballons. La figure 8 montre l'ajustement initial. Enfin, enlevez l'excès de pont pour que les trous soient visibles selon le plan. Voir les images 7 et 8. Dans l'image 5, seul le pont arrière est en place. Sur le prochain bateau, je terminerai le pont jusqu'au poste de prise. Vient maintenant ce que je pense est la partie la plus difficile du processus de construction. Marquage vers le haut et découper un trou dans la coque pour l'aileron et coller dans un boîtier d'aileron aligné et le coller au pont et à la cloison avant. Quand je construis mon prochain bateau, j'ajouterai des photos du positionnement des ailerons. Cliquez sur n'importe quelle image pour agrandir l'image. The fin case, bulkhead and forward aft deck What you need 5 minute epoxy Slow cure epoxy Fin Fin case Rudder Rudder stock brass tubes Cross bars for rudder stock and rudder servo mount. Prepared forward part of the aft deck Cut out bulkhead shape to fit under fordeck 1"glass tape Various fittings, jib tack bolts, mast ram, mainsheet post, back stay bolt, mainsheet pulley blocks, fairleads to allow the endless mainsheet to go through bulkhead The Details Tape the hull into the jig so the shroud points on the deck are parallel to the base of the jig. Everything will be aligned to this. Measuring from the stern datum, mark the front and back of the fin hole on the outside of the hull. Then mark a centreline which you will have marked on the frames of the jig. This will get the correct alignment for the fin hole. Remove the hull and using the fin, mark the contour of the fin. Cut out the slot for the fin using a Dremel or similar being careful to cut well inside the line. Use sandpaper to open the slot to fit the fin exactly. Tape the hull back in the jig. With the fin in the slot, push the fin case over the fin so that the bottom of the case is lying on the hull. There are two measurements on the plan to align the fin, one shows the tip of the fin where is enters the bulb. This should be 330mm from the bottom of the hull and the other measures from the same fin tip to the bottom of the bow of the boat. If set up correctly the leading edge of the fin should be perpendicular to the waterline. Shape the bottom of the fin box and fin until this is achieved. Ideally the fin should fit all the way into the fin box. I used some string to determined the position of the tip of the fin. Reinforce the shroud bolt locations with half an inch of 1" tape and once dry fit the shrouds. There is a huge amount of strength with this design in this area and no further reinforcement is needed. Fit the shroud bolt now while you have access to the underside of the deck. Once the base of the fin box is shaped and the fin aligned, now is the time to dry fit the forward part of the aft deck and trim the top of the fin box until the deck fits snuggly. Spot glue the fin box in place with the fin in the box and support in the right position. Once fixed seal the fin box to the hull with 5 min epoxy and microballoons with a small fillet. Finally reinforce the fin box to the hull with 1"glass tape and epoxy. With the fin box in place, dry fit the forward part of the deck with the fin box and forward bulkhead. Once happy with fit, do a final check that the forward bulkhead is in the right place from the stern datum. Get this wrong and you will have issues with your mast ram. Spot glue with 5 min epoxy and micro balloon. With 5 min epoxy and micro balloon seal the bulkhead and seal where the fin box connects with the deck. Finally reinforce the top of the fin box with fin one inch tape. Finally glue the radio pot holder under the deck and seal with epoxy. In my first build I glued the pot on top which looks messy. Bond in the cross beams for the servo and rudder stock with one inch tape See image below for positions. Remember to sand the inside of the hull to create a good keyed surface. Drill the hole in the deck for the fin bolt and mast. Now is the time to check for leaks. Fill the depressed area of the deck forward of the radio pot with water and see if there are any leaks. Drill a 4mm hole in the hull for the rudder, with the central point located from the jig and distance from the aft datum measured off the plan. The rudder stock is 2 tubes of brass, one 5mm o/d and one 4mm o/d. The two tubes slot into one another and the rudder post goes inside for a very tight fit. Mark on the rudder brace bar a line which when a hole is drilled for the stock ensures the trailing edge of the rudder does not extend beyond the stern of the boat. The rudder stock will project a couple of mm above the cross bar. Drill a hole in the centre and ream it wide perpendicular to the hull. Fit the stock in place on the rudder and in the boat. Apply some 5 min epoxy with micro balloon to fix the top of the stock with the rudder exactly aligned with the keel. Leave to set, then seal the stock in the hull and reinforce the top if necessary. The worst is over. My first cross beam was so strong I saved weight by cutting it in half. The next cross beam will be much lighter. Paint the whole boat in 2 pack polyurethane top coat and lightly rub and t-cut to desired finish Fit the mainsheet post, backstay bolt, aft pulley for mainsheet, fairleads for sheet control through the bulkhead, setting these as low as possible so they don't interfere with the kicker on a run on port gybe. Fit the 4 jib sheet leads in the foredeck and the 3 tack bolts. Finally, drill a bung hole, push a needle through the centre of the bung, thread a chord and tie to the backstay. Drill two bolts to hold the winch bracket in the forward bulkhead. Align the winch with the fairleads. The bracket was just a 90 degree moulding cut to shape around the winch and enough flange to brace it securely to the bulkhead. Drill a hole for the mast ram and fit. Bond a strengthening post in the foredeck around the jib tack area to stop foredeck lifting under load. Don't fit the radio pot until correctors have been fitted. Le dernier travail d'assemblage sur le bateau De quoi as-tu besoin Barre franche pour gouvernail Connecteur de la gouverne de direction au servo Servomoteur Destinataire Batterie LiFeP04 batterie 1600mA (plus d'une journée complète d'autonomie). Vous pouvez utiliser aussi peu que 900 mA si vous avez besoin de gagner du poids. Interrupteur marche/arrêt étanche Treuil RG et support. Le processus Percez un trou dans la cloison avant sur le côté gauche pour l'interrupteur marche/arrêt électrique et installez-le. Montez le treuil sur le support et lâchez-le sur la cloison. Faites un trou dans la traverse pour le servo et installez et acheminez le câble jusqu'au pot radio. Faites un trou dans le haut du pot radio juste en dessous de son cadre de support et faites passer le câble du servo et du commutateur pour la batterie à l'intérieur du pot à travers le trou. Connectez le servo de gouvernail au canal 1 du récepteur. Connectez le connecteur du treuil au canal 3 et installez le troisième câble de treuil lâche à une broche centrale redondante, disons le canal 5. Connectez l'interrupteur au treuil. Utilisez des connecteurs XT30 dans la mesure du possible ou vous obtiendrez suffisamment de puissance pour le treuil. Si vous mettez l'appareil sous tension, avec un peu de chance, un émetteur allumé déplacera le gouvernail et le treuil. Il y a toute une section sur la configuration de l'émetteur radio ICI . Si tout fonctionne, vous êtes prêt à installer le dispositif de réglage de la feuille sans fin. La feuille sans fin est un travail fastidieux. J'ai acheté le treuil avec une poulie de rappel à tension automatique, c'est-à-dire qu'il est équipé d'un ressort qui arrêtera le mou de la ligne d'écoute. Trouvez les extrémités du treuil en déplaçant complètement le manche de l'émetteur vers le haut et vers le bas. J'utilise pour la feuille complètement sortie et en bas pour complètement dedans. Laisser la manette de commande vers le bas (feuille à l'intérieur). Prenez deux lignes et enfilez-les dans les passe-câbles de la cloison et courez jusqu'au treuil. La ligne extérieure tirera les feuilles vers l'intérieur et l'intérieur laissera la feuille sortir. Sur le treuil, la poulie inférieure est rentrée, la poulie à ressort supérieure est sortie. Avec la ligne extérieure, nouez sur la poulie inférieure et enroulez 5 fois autour de la poulie. Attachez la ligne intérieure à la poulie supérieure mais n'utilisez qu'une et une demi-tours. En gardant les lignes légèrement tendues afin de ne pas perdre les enroulements sur le treuil, vous pouvez maintenant monter le treuil en toute sécurité. La ligne extérieure est passée le long du pont et à travers la poulie arrière près du pataras du côté tribord, filetée vers l'intérieur puis attachée à un anneau en acier inoxydable de 5 mm à 2" du bloc de poulie. La ligne intérieure (feuille extérieure) peut être tendue, vous sentirez la résistance de la poulie à tension automatique et l'attacherez à l'anneau en acier inoxydable afin que le système sans fin soit raisonnablement serré. Les écoutes de grand-voile et de foc s'attacheront à l'anneau. Le système d'écoute de grand-voile sans fin est complet. If you turn the power on, with any luck a switched on transmitter will move the rudder and winch. There is a whole section on the setup of the radio transmitter HERE . If all works you are ready to fit the endless sheet adjuster. The endless sheet is a fiddly job. I bought the winch with a self tensioning return pulley, i.e it is fitted with a spring that will stop the sheet line going slack. Find the end points of the winch by moving the control stick on the transmitter fully up and down. I use up for sheet fully out and down for fully in. Leave the control stick down (sheet in). Take two lines and thread through the bulkhead fairleads and run to the winch. The outer line will pull the sheets in and the inner will let the sheet out. On the winch the bottom pulley is sheet in, the top sprung pulley is sheet out. With the outer line, tie off on the lower pulley and wrap 5 times round the pulley. Tie the inner line to the upper pulley but only use one and a half turns. Keeping the lines lightly tensioned so you don't lose wraps on the winch, you can now securely mount the winch. The outer line is run along the deck and through the aft pulley near the backstay on the starboard side, threaded out to in and then tied to a 5mm stainless ring 2" from the pulley block. The inside line (sheet out) can be tensioned, you will feel the resistance of the self tensioning pulley and tie off to the stainless ring so the endless system is reasonable tight. The main and jib sheets will tie off to the ring. The endless mainsheet system is complete. Le résultat final Next Section The optimised Alternative build