Search Results

It is possible to have a Brand-New competitive IOM in 6 weeks for less than £1500? …. Really? By Malcolm Appleton Fact or fiction? I wanted to find out, because: Like it or not we live in the Amazon generation of click and collect. What permeated the souls of Gen Z over five years ago has, supercharged by the Covid shut downs leached its way into the consciousness of the Boomer Generation. That means for me, that prospect of waiting up 18 months for delivery of a competitive hull plus another month for final fitout (or earlier for the same price as a small car) has become unacceptably frustrating. And it carries the risk that I may not live long enough to see it to fruition. ☹ But is there a solution? … continuous development of both 3D printers, filament materials and the ready availability of powerful CAD systems, could a well-designed 3D printed hulls be the answer to the maiden’s prayer in drastically reducing lead times. So, I set myself the following objectives to: prove that it’s possible to enter the world of International One Metre sailing with a modern design performance boat and win races for twice the price of a similar spec’d DF95. i.e. ready to sail with A, B & C rigs. purchase of all components and have a finished ready to sail boat in a minimum of 4 weeks, or comfortably 6 weeks find out if it was possible to build a competitive boat in my study starting from a place of never having built a boat before (feel the fear and do it anyway) and with limited model making skills plus a determination to succeed. see how the boat performed in print finished form. Being lazy, i.e. not wanting to spend too much time sanding and painting the hull, I decided to research the subject of laminar flow extensively, and concluded that at the speeds a One Metre can achieve the benefit would be marginal, i.e a lot less than one badly timed tack. Did I fulfil them? Absolutely - and this is how I chose to build an Alioth V3 Alioth V3 - IOM ALIOTH | RC SAILING LAB on the basis that a friend at Emsworth where I sail, had already printed and built a V2 and found it to be well designed and reasonable fast. Bribed with a bottle of finest Malt, I persuaded him to print one for me, and being a bit impulsive bought the licences just as the design had moved on to Version 3. How lucky was I!. I built the 5-section hull and found it to perform well, but I always wanted a 3-section one with recessed jib pivots which I think look nicer. So, I contacted Paul Barton who was happy to take my money and print a 3 section for me in a couple of weeks. Both hulls were printed using the same Polymax PLA Tough filament which seems to be as good as its word. Temperature and speed control are important if you fancy printing your own, we found in the first endeavour one of the printed parts had suspect adhesion between the layers....not good, but rectified second time around. Taking a deep breath, I slotted the prepared hull sections together, and they lined up precisely. Giving me the confidence to repeat the procedure this time with glue added to the joints. When measured by Paul Edwards at Gosport the completed overall length was exactly 1 metre, and the fin and rudder lined up perfectly. Wow - this was a pleasant surprise since I did not use an assembly jig. It’s a testament to Juan Egea’s construction design. I did use a tripod mount cross laser (Amazon £26) for ensuring the Fin was at right angles to the fore/aft water line - although strictly speaking unnecessary as the designer’s measurements are more than adequate to achieve the same result. The laser was used because I could, (another toy for the cupboard) . My biggest challenge for the build was choosing the correct adhesives. For non-flexible joints I used an MMA adhesive, which is a powerful hybrid Epoxy/CA mix. For the hull joints which need to flex to absorb potential collisions I use CT1 which is silicone based. I figured using a hard adhesive in a potentially flexible environment wouldn’t be a smart thing to do. It seems to have worked – solid boat no leaks. The printed hull was sprayed with two coats Plasticoat clear gloss, oven dried at 24 degrees (not in our kitchen oven!). Very lightly sanded in between each coat. Initial surface prep consisted very quick light sanding with 240 grit wet and dry, afterwards simply 'washing the surface’ with Multi solve CT1 Multisolve Solvent for Removing Adhesives & Sealants (500ml) cleaner to remove surface dust and any grease. I used this to clean the joints as well and has proven its worth. The finished boat ready to sail required 130gms of ballast to bring it up to 4Kgs. 120gms of which I placed astride the keel box and the remainder positioned to trim the fore/aft attitude of the boat. Trimming was to the designer’s waterline specification, using the tank at Gosport. The bare hull was fitted out using a high power DF95 rudder servo, RMG J series winch, John Gill carbon rudder (a work of art and beauty) Dave Creed Fin and Bulb, SAILSetc spars and Sailboat RC one piece moulded sails. All the parts arrived within 3 weeks allowing me to complete the hull build in time for arrival of the sails which took just over 3 weeks to get to my doorstep for the equivalent UK sourced price. In use, the hull has proven to be tough, substantially stronger than that of my Kantun K2 the Polymax filament proving highly resistant to accidental collision damage. Without other distractions I calculate that the entire build would have taken me four weeks. To conclude: This project exceeded my expectations. I learnt masses about sail settings and boat balance. Ended up with a very competitive (race winning) club boat. Felt the fear and did it anyway – what could possibly go wrong? Mistakes are only costly in time, not £££ An excellent ‘value for money’ entry into One Metre sailing. The downside? Glue is smelly and best done in the garage Glueing the parts together can be scary using a quick cure (5 min) product Having to be disciplined enough to create to create time for family while building the boat. My thanks must go to those who helped and inspired me to see the project through to its best Chris Lawrence; Paul Barton; Nigel Barrow and Steve Taylor Cheers guys Author and image copyright: Malcolm Appleton January 2025

Working up a Britpop As most of you know I gave in and bought a Britpop mid 2021 to take out the one variable to boat speed that was unknown to me. It was not that my Alternative was slow, it was just all the fast designs today have a significant chine and volume at the back end and that sowed an element of doubt in my mind over my boats overall performance. Funnily enough I thought that any tiny lack of performance was in light weather rather than heavy. In a breeze on flat water, I felt the Alternative had a slight edge The road to glory is not as simple as buying a Britpop or similar modern design and does not lead to race winning performance. Here is my story so far. The initial set up The third hand hull (2014 Robot build) was sound with a few scratches on the hull and bulb that I was able to polish out however it had a couple of chunks taken out of the trailing edge of the fin. It had an excellent RMG winch and fittings so nothing had to be done to the hull fin and bulb. There was no RC so I bought a Futaba I6 transmitter and receiver which I found to be excellent and replaced the rudder servo with a futaba 3010. The reason for using a Futaba instead of the Flysky was the Futaba had a ratchet on the winch. I coated all the connections in Corrosion X to stop any corrosion in salt water. However I found that was not enough as when the radio pot leaked with salt water and I left it for a couple of days, the connectors showed signs of corrosion and had to be replaced. A cut down kilner jar rubber seal inserted in the lid fixed the leak or so I thought and replaced connectors got the electrics back up and running reliably. The hull is cleaned with T cut and left at that. There are a couple of chips in the trailing edge of the fin but I have not noticed any problem with that but are now repaired. I had worked up good rigs on my Alternative and all I had to do was transfer them to the Britpop. The rigs are BG sails set on PG spars with 11 and 7 mm pre bend on the A and B rig. The settings are almost identical between the boat designs. You can see the rig set up here. although I have made a few changes to the jib attachment at the head because the loop knot I used to attach the topping lift slipped on the B and C rig with disastrous results so I attach the topping lift and jib luff direct to the hook on the mast (See the story here ) . On the A rig, my loop knot is a bowline with a locking half hitch coated in super glue to make sure there is no slippage. there are more pictures of the current rig below. The sheets are 35kg line as is the line to the winch. The sheets need replacing regularly but I find anything heavier does not ease effectively in very light weather. I have tested the 35kg line in 25-30 knots of breeze with the C rig and top end of the A rig so they are strong enough. I use the standard setup settings on the BG website as my starting point and always carry a rig stick to make sure the rake is correct and therefore the boat is balanced and run a tape over the foot and leach measurements. A wise man in Birkenhead said to me, the secret in setting up the boat is to have a list of goto settings and keep everything as simple as possible. There are changes made to my original rig setups which I have previously documented but the latest are from events occurring at the 2 Islands ranking event where I broke a shroud and had no spare. I now have spare A and B Jibs on booms, and completing spare A and B masts with mains, along with spare shrouds and backstays. The last thing was to put the boat in the measuring tank to look at two things. One was the fore and aft balance of the boat which I am happy to say is good. The bow was out of the water for just under an inch from the back of the bow bumper so no need to do anything. The other thing was to see if I could drop the bulb/fin as I know we had approximately a 5 mm gap to the measuring bar when last measured. Sure enough, it could drop 4.5mm which does not sound a lot but sailing hard up wind, moving 2.5kg, 4.5mm further out is quite a bit of righting moment. Of course, now I need a securing bolt with an extra 5mm on it. To drop the fin, I put together spacers on top of the fin (three section of cable tie stuck together with super glue and packed out the trailing edge with Isopon so the fin was nice and snug in the case. The last thing was to replace my futaba 3010 servo with a BLS471sv. It was not a cheap replacement but the rudder is tighter with no movement and centres perfectly every time. WIth the 3010, if you move the rudder, there was about 5mm movement on the trailing edge. With the 471 there is no movement at all. Once the Britpop was set up and sailing it was time to apply some magic which I hate to say only seems to come through experience, racing and practice, or as my old 470 sparing partner and super coach said, you just need many hours on the water. The observations below are my learnings from the racing so far. Where is the magic A simple rig setup Articles on setting up the rig on an IOM may talk about how the mast control is split into 3 sections. The bottom third is controlled by the mast ram, the middle third is controlled by the spreaders and the rig tension and the top third is controlled by backstay tension. That is the easy bit. The hard bit is to determine what your initial racing setup should be based on your understanding of the mast bend/mainsail relationship. The experts are able to set their boats up almost by feel. They have done it so many times before and know what works and what doesn't work and have good reliable base settings. The ultimate test of a correct set up is to tack your boat on the limit of a rig and have the boat accelerate away with little or no helm interaction. To learn about the impact of different adjustments, I like to experiment by laying the boat with the mast horizontal. Bear in mind I use BG sails which has luff curve built in so giving great flexibility in the way you shape the sail and these are fitted to a PG mast (10mm prebend) on a Britpop. My goal is to understand how the mast bend works given different settings from one extreme to another. Once I have been through this exercise, I identify one mid range setting, mark everything up to this setting and this will be my start point for racing. If there is more or less wind, I will make mm adjustments to the backstay, and maybe shroud tension. The first thing to do is set the mast up with relatively slack shrouds for light weather. The leeward shroud must not go soft when on the wind and then apply enough backstay so the mast is as straight as possible even through the deck. You should have a couple mm of rake on your spreaders. This is the starting point for light weather. Now if you apply more backstay you begin to de-power the rig, the mast will bend evenly but more in in the central third. If you keep the shroud tension the same and apply more backstay, the main will end up flat at the middle/ bottom third and be too full at the top and may even break down in the middle, if you overdue the backstay tension. Our goal is to keep the power low down and blade out or flatten the top. As the wind builds above an imaginary 5 knots or so, gradually stiffen the mast low down by applying a little more rig tension and add a tiny bit of reverse bend at the deck with the mast chock. Remember the rig tension will affect the middle third of the mast. As you stiffen the bottom and middle third of the mast, you encourage more bend at the top which will help blade out the sail effectively depowering the rig. The rig tension is gradually increased through the wind range, 0-5, 5-10,10-15. At the top end of the A rig you need max rig tension to get as much bend as possible in the top third of the mast so you blade out the top of the sail. You should end up with slight reverse bend at the deck level, an even bend through the mast with slightly more induced at the top. If it all works out when sailing upwind, your main should fill evenly top to bottom and invert at the top as the rig becomes overpowered. The goal of this exercise is to develop an understanding of how the rig works not to develop a myriad of settings for different wind ranges. Once you have tried this indoors and understood how everything fits together, find a mid point setting (5 to 10 knots) and test it out on the water. If you are happy with what you see, mark everything up so you can repeat the setup when you next rig your boat. The usual rules apply for rig set up, set the kicker for downwind, use the backstay for upwind leach tension, make the jib slot parallel to the main as well as using the BG measurement for distance from leach line to jib leach and main and jib foot depth. From this setup you will only need to apply mm adjustments to the backstay, and maybe a slight increase of decrease on shroud tension. When I set up, I have marked positions for the shroud bottle screws (locking nuts), sheet hooks, sail foot depths, mast rake and leach twist distances from the topping lift, sheeting angle for the main and jib. With these as a starting point, I know I have a reliable setup and if I need to adjust anything by more then a few mm, something is wrong in my initial setup. Some pictures of the extreme setting to see their impact on the mainsail 1 The shrouds are as slack as they can be with a straight mast. Perfect starting point for light weather The effect of too much backstay with little rig tensions. The sail has inverted at the numbers and the top of the mast is still relatively straight at the top third. The same setting as above only I have Increased the shroud tension to the max. Note how the middle has straightened out. I could straighten the middle of the mast more if I want with a little more mast chock. Setting adjustments are subtle for any given condition and needs only mm's of change but one must read the settings guide thoroughly, otherwise basic mistakes can be made. In light weather I noticed at one of the ranking events, that Chris Harris who won the day, using more depth in the jib foot in light weather and I estimated it to be 25-30mm. The BG standard measurement is circa 22mm. It was the same on his mainsail, so I tried the same and went from 22 to 30 and saw an increase in speed with the boat pointing at the same height or higher to windward. Of course you still need to sail fast and free to maximise speed around the course. On making further enquiries about the main and jib foot depth, I had assumed that the BG measurements were from the centre of the boom to the foot of the sail. I emailed Brad Gibson and he replied saying that the measurement is from the edge of the booms which make 5mm difference. Took me 6 months to work that one out. The second setting adjustment was on the mainsail in a breeze. I have always struggled to keep the top third of the main from backwinding at the top end of the A rig, even with the jib leech well open. I found by flattening the foot by 5mm, increasing the shroud tension to move the bend up the mast with 1-3 mm of extra back stay, the top of the sail is flattened and works more effectively and does not backwind so much in the gusts. It seemed similar to when we used to blade out the top of the mainsail on fractional rig yachts. When you measure the luff curve on the mainsail luff of a BG sail, there is a max of 10mm in a smooth curve from the mast head to 600mm down. This is the ideal curve one needs to achieve on the mast so the top of the sail flattens evenly and remains stable. I slightly flatten the jib on flat water at the top end of the A rig but only by 5mm or so. The third adjustment is with the shrouds. Starting lose in light weather they should be progressively tightened as the wind builds. The critical thing to look for is that the mast stays in column on either tack when set up for windward work and the leeward shroud should not go slack when the boat is under pressure otherwise the windward spreader will push the middle of the mast to leeward. The shrouds should not be so tight that the middle of the mast cannot flex fore and aft to de-power the rig in a gust. Check that the shrouds are of equal length when pulled down the front of the mast so you know when equally tensioned the mast will be upright and when you rig the boat, lay it on the ground or stand so you can see down the mast to make sure there is no sideways bend caused by uneven shrouds tension and double check the backstay crane is central. When the boat is set up correctly it rarely needs changing. I have sailed for a whole day with variable conditions without changing a thing. If you find yourself tinkering after each race your boat is not optimised. If the wind does build during the day you will need to tighten the jib luff slightly which has the effect of tightening the jib leech. A loose jib leech will cause the boat to luff up in a breeze and that is slow. If you have a transmitter with a ratchet sheet, you have a huge advantage with the precision you can set the sheeting angle of the sails. The video below show the effect of easing the sheets 1 2 or 3 clicks. Double click on the screen for full screen view. Once your boat is set up, the rest is down to your sailing skill which I cover on another page. See my latest setup checklist at the bottom of the page but I regularly re read the BG setup tips to make sure I have not made any silly mistakes. Finally a couple of pictures. The first is the method of keeping the jib boom as low as possible. I use a sheet hook with a series of holes spaced 2.5mm apart so I can get the jib as close to the deck as possible. The only downside with the use of the clamp on the boom is that the line wears after several weekends and has to be replaced however this is only a 5 minute job. I have changed to tying the tack line onto the boom which eliminates there clamp, sheet hook and ring The next picture shows how I have lowered the mast by 7 to 10mm to get the lower band below the deck level by 5mm. It involved modifying the kicker fitting, shortening the length of it by 10mm which I explained in a thought for the day. I also learnt how salt crystallises inside your mast if you do not flush them out on a regular basis. Note that if you lower the mast too much the gooseneck will not be able to but up against the mast ram and stop any mast rotation. I use a standard Cunningham arrangement feeding to the two cable ties and the bowsie is to tighten the jackstay (luff wire of the mainsail). This one shows my final jib head arrangement for the A rig which allows the jib to freely rotate in very light weather. The design is the one suggested by sails etc however I have gone back to attaching the leech line and jib luff to the hook on the mast Here is the sailsetc boom end fitting that eliminated the wear on the elasticated topping lift. The elastic runs inside the boom. Here you can see the velcro in the radio pot which allows me to position everything at the top of the pot so I have no issues if salt water accidentally gets in. A note for open water compared to inland sailing In open water there is a good chance you will be sailing in waves. The boat is constantly accelerating and de-accelerating. The sails will nearly always require more depth and twist than on flat water to power through the waves. Again we are only talking a mm or two of change in your setting but it will make a huge difference. One last thing. I picked up a rig tension meter in mid 2022 and found this to be invaluable. Bearing in mind the impact of rig tension on the middle third of the mast, you must have a base starting point. If you want one, email JohnGill1003@gmail.com . He is based in the UK. It is a quality product and each one is individually tested. Avant un événement Déterminez quel est votre objectif en voile Connaître ton règles et tactiques de course Gérez votre investissement avec prudence entretien de bateaux Naviguez vite avec le droit réglage et configuration du bateau Connaître vos radiocommandes Efficace pratique du bateau Assurez une configuration cohérente en utilisant listes de contrôle Savoir comment le la météo t'aidera Utile les références

After 6 months experimenting, I think I am now at my final configuration which allows me to sail with the main boom parallel on all rigs. Through my whole dinghy sailing career I wanted to sail with the main boom parallel to the deck. It looks right and usually fast. Mast rake is up to 2 degrees and my challenge was getting a fin in the right position to work with this rig. The goal was to sail with a perfectly balanced boat with a hint of lee helm so when I am looking for wind shifts, the boat is sailing as fast as it can upwind. With the previous weather helm I had tended to lose speed when I looked up the course. I am using a Craig Smith fin with a Robot bulb. Fin Leading edge of top of fin to line perpendicular from bow (excluding the bumper). 500mm (measured parallel to the waterline). I have since moved this to 515mm (23/11/2024) to try and get the boat to drive off the jib instead of trying to luff up all the time. Fin leading edge is exactly 88 degrees (now 90 degrees as I moved the top of the fin back) to waterline (tiny rake) I had got this to vertical but the boat was not quite balanced right. Bulb angle to waterline 2 degrees. Bottom of bulb is 2mm above max draft Hull to top of bulb down leading edge of fin. 330mm Bow to tip of fin where it enters bulb 640mm. C of G of bulb is 5mm forward of leading edge of fin Fin weight. I can't give you the exact weight but it is lighter than anything I have seen. Rudder Depth of rudder 220. Very thin chord but no experience of stalling. I have since tried this down. Shortened the rudder by 15mm and trimmed 5mm off the back Rig Top of boom band to step 135mm A rig mast rake 1040 (bow behind bumper to 900 mm mark on mast measured from top of foredeck.) My next step is to work up a set of sails for open water. More on that as the summer progresses assuming we eventually get summer weather. In the build up to the worlds I settled on Sailboat RC sails and went for the max depth A Rig sails which I have to say have delivered good speed. I change the mast prebend a little bit and moved it further down the mast which made a significant difference in mast stiffness to the point I had to rake the spreaders back a few degrees more. The blog covers events at the worlds The only niggle with the boat this year was i the fin is still too far forward as I still get occasional weather helm and this can slow the boat in waves in a breeze so I am working on moving the top back (See above comments in brackets) but leaving the bulb in the same position

Arrondissement de la marque au vent Que souhaitez-vous savoir Éviter les foules Ne frappez pas la marque Connaître ses règles Arrivée dans la zone à tribord Les détails A la bouée au vent, il y a de légères opportunités de gagner des places mais de grandes opportunités de perdre. À l'extrême, vous pourriez arriver à la première marque en second en entrant à bâbord, mais vous ne pouvez pas trouver de trou dans la file des bateaux tribord entrant dans la marque. Il faut passer derrière tous les bateaux tribord qui traînent les uns après les autres et on peut passer en dernier. Donc la règle d'or pour préparer la marque au vent est d'approcher à tribord en ayant viré à au moins 6 longueurs de bateau de la marque donc il n'est pas question que vous ayez viré en dehors de la zone. S'il y a une marque de barre de flèche, donnez-vous un peu d'espace au vent pour éviter tout air perturbé et assurez-vous de pouvoir naviguer à la meilleure vitesse jusqu'à la marque de barre de flèche. Si vous regardez certaines des marques au vent s'arrondir au Mondial au Brésil, vous pouvez voir de nombreux exemples de gains et de pertes. Il y a quelques liens au bas de cet article et toutes les vidéos du championnat sont ICI Lors de votre approche, essayez d'éviter les groupes de bateaux. Ils vous ralentiront toujours en restreignant vos mouvements et même en vous forçant à vous éloigner de la marque. Au pire, vous pourriez être impliqué dans un incident et devoir effectuer un tour de pénalité Il va de soi d'éviter de toucher la marque ou son écarteur provoquant un tour de pénalité. Donnez-vous un peu d'espace supplémentaire. Connaissez vos règles à la marque Voici une règle clé La zone de marque est de 4 longueurs de bateau R18 Tout bateau qui vire dans la zone de marque n'a pratiquement aucun droit Si vous virez dans la zone et que le bateau tribord derrière doit lofer pour vous éviter, vous encourez une pénalité. Vous n'avez aucun droit sur la place des marques. Si deux bateaux virent en même temps dans la zone, l'un sur bâbord doit se maintenir à l'écart et un nouvel engagement est établi une fois les bords terminés Si vous touchez la marque parce que vous êtes enfreint vous êtes disculpé et n'avez pas à faire un tour Exemples de vidéos Quand ça va mal Actions au niveau de la marque d'épandage

Après la voile "Prenez soin de votre bateau et il prendra soin de vous" Que souhaitez-vous savoir Protégez toujours votre bateau des rayons directs du soleil Toujours sécher le bateau et les voiles après la course Rincer l'intérieur de la coque avec une demi-tasse d'eau si vous avez navigué en eau salée Retirer un patch pour permettre la ventilation Séchez les voiles avec une serviette pour éviter les filigranes Vérifiez les lignes pour les signes d'effilochage et les nœuds qui peuvent se détacher Nettoyez et protégez les appareils électriques avec de la vaseline ou l'équivalent Protéger les palmes avec de la mousse isolante Relâchez tous les tendeurs de voile, kicker, cunningham, jackstay, etc. Rangez les voiles et les gréements dans une boîte pour les protéger Le détail Juste avant de commencer, il y a une chose à mentionner. Entre les courses lorsque votre bateau est hors de l'eau par beau temps, posez-le à l'ombre ou couvrez-le d'une serviette. Ne pas le faire peut entraîner un gouvernail ou un aileron déformé et une chaleur extrême entraînera le durcissement de l'époxyde dans la coque. Vous avez donc fini de courir pour la journée et vous pensez que tout est fini. Pas assez. Vous avez investi beaucoup de temps et d'argent dans votre bateau et vos voiles et cela doit être traité avec respect. Alors, que devrais-tu faire. Séchez toujours soigneusement le bateau avec une serviette et vidangez toute eau qui s'est infiltrée à l'intérieur du bateau. Retirez les patchs de pont d'extrémité pour permettre à l'air de circuler à travers la coque et sécher l'intérieur. Vous ne voulez pas de condensation lorsque le bateau est remisé en semaine. Si vous naviguez dans de l'eau salée et que le bateau a fui, mettez une demi-tasse d'eau douce à l'intérieur de la coque et rincez le sel. Séchez soigneusement les voiles avec une serviette pour éviter les traces d'eau. Facilitez toutes les lignes de tension pour que vos voiles ne se déforment pas. Une fois qu'ils sont complètement secs, remettez-les dans votre boîte de montage pour le stockage. Scannez les lignes sur votre bateau pour l'usure et vérifiez que les nœuds sont sécurisés. Si les nœuds sont super collés, ils ne doivent jamais se défaire. Vérifiez que le pot radio n'est pas humide et sec et débranchez la batterie et retirez-la pour la recharger plus tard. Il est de bonne politique de transporter des piles de rechange. Immédiatement après avoir sorti le bateau de l'eau, placez une isolation en mousse sur les bords d'attaque et de fuite de l'aileron, du bulbe et du gouvernail en garantissant qu'ils ne seront pas endommagés pendant le transport. Lorsque vous naviguez localement et que vous transportez un bateau entièrement gréé, assurez-vous que la coque repose sur quelque chose de propre et doux, ou si vous transportez sans le gréement, placez un anneau d'isolation de tuyau autour de la proue et de la poupe. Cela suspendra le bateau dans les airs et évitera ainsi l'usure sur le côté de la coque.

Le jour (Cliquez sur le texte en bleu) L'installation est aussi importante que l'installation du bateau Utilisez un processus reproductible pour mise en place du bateau Utilisez judicieusement le temps de navigation avant le départ Le départ est à 80% de la course, faites-en une bonne Suivez votre plan pour la 1ère étape au vent et préparez-vous à esquiver les bateaux pour vous rendre du côté souhaité du parcours Planifiez tôt le contournement de la marque au vent , arrivez à tribord et évitez les groupes de bateaux Installez-vous pour accéder au côté souhaité de la piste Marque sous le vent - Être à l'intérieur du bateau, approcher large et finir près de la marque Dernier battement - Couverture lâche pour maintenir la position Les marques d'arrivée ont les mêmes règles appliquées que la marque au vent. Éviter de virer dans la zone Parcourez votre liste de contrôle après la navigation , nettoyez et séchez le bateau, desserrez les voiles, etc. Règles d'or Rester hors des ennuis Tout assembler - Vidéo d'une course de championnat du monde avec voix off tactique

Sites australiens Navigation radiocommandée en eau salée Darren Paulic a posté ceci sur Facebook RC Sailing Group Boutique de voile radio Fournitures radio Australie Radio Yachts par Red Ant Appareillage radio SailRC 360 voiles Voiles de chat FRD Frank Russell Conception JG Voiles Plan B Voiles Spectre Mirage Radio Yachts Sites néo-zélandais Vickers RC Voile Fournitures de yacht radio Ultralite Radio Yachtin g Association néo-zélandaise de yachting radio

The Marblehead Project Here is the story of my entry into the world of Marbleheads.

règles d'or « Gagner ne signifie pas toujours être le premier. Gagner signifie que vous faites mieux que vous ne l'avez jamais fait auparavant. - Bonnie Blair Que souhaitez-vous savoir Le but n'est pas de gagner mais d'exécuter votre plan Vous n'avez pas besoin de gagner une course pour gagner la série Le départ est à 80% de la course Naviguez votre propre course et évitez les grands groupes de bateaux Rester hors des ennuis Tour de pénalité immédiatement pour chaque infraction Amusez-vous et profitez de la course J'adore la citation en haut de cette page. Une seule personne peut être le gagnant, alors quel objectif à avoir, "faire mieux que vous ne l'avez jamais fait auparavant". Quels sont les principaux points à retenir pour la course à partir de ce site Web. Nous avons parlé de ne pas nous concentrer sur la victoire, mais d'exécuter votre plan. J'ai découvert comment gagner dans ma jeunesse en me concentrant non pas sur la joie d'être le gagnant mais sur tous les détails nécessaires pour gagner. Je naviguais dans une course avec le bon état d'esprit et la bonne concentration, quand soudain, pour la première fois de ma vie, je me suis retrouvé à l'avant de la flotte. Qu'est-ce que j'ai fait? Sous le choc de la situation, j'ai pensé à ne pas perdre ma place et j'ai arrêté de penser aux détails. Vous pouvez deviner ce qui s'est passé? Je suis retombé dans la flotte. Cependant, une fois que j'ai établi l'état d'esprit de me concentrer sur les détails, ma place à l'avant de la flotte a été établie et je n'ai jamais regardé en arrière. Dans une série, vous n'êtes pas obligé de gagner toutes les courses. La cohérence et le respect de votre plan vous permettront d'obtenir une série de meilleurs résultats. Vous ne savez jamais ce qui va se passer avant le début de la journée mais vous pouvez contrôler ce que vous êtes capable de contrôler, c'est-à-dire la préparation, les listes de contrôle, l'étude de l'eau, la pratique avant l'événement et ainsi de suite. Obtenez le bon détail et vous obtiendrez les résultats. Je ne saurais trop insister sur le fait que la course est pratiquement terminée après la première minute de navigation. Oui il y aura des décalages et des changements de lieux mais la hiérarchie est établie. Donc, si vous allez vous entraîner et vous concentrer sur quoi que ce soit, concentrez-vous sur le début. Vous ne serez pas déçu. Si vous regardez les courses, vous verrez qu'il y a toujours des groupes de bateaux qui interfèrent les uns avec les autres, des combats de chiens, des lofs etc. Si vous vous impliquez dans un groupe, au pire vous risquez un incident et un tour de pénalité, au mieux ils vous ralentiront alors que vous vous battez pour échapper au peloton. Vous voulez éviter tout cela. Évitez les ennuis et restez à l'écart. Faites cela et vous constaterez que vous prendrez des places alors que d'autres marins se concentrent sur les petites batailles et perdront la trace du plan global. Si vous faites une infraction, vous devez faire votre tour immédiatement, pas à mi-chemin de la prochaine étape. Quelque chose que je n'ai pas couvert et probablement l'élément le plus important sur ce site est de s'amuser. Lorsque vous naviguez, vous devriez avoir le sourire aux oreilles de la joie d'être à l'extérieur dans un environnement merveilleux, avec de bonnes plaisanteries amicales et un bateau rapide et bien navigué. Quel plaisir ce sera de faire mieux que jamais auparavant.

Pour tester cette fonctionnalité, accédez à votre site en ligne. Tous les posts Mes posts The Forum Browse the forum below & start posting questions, tips, and anything else that you'd like to share with the community. Trier par : Activité récente Suivre toutes les catégories Créer un nouveau post Comments Vues Activité récente Item option menu Jib pivot guido02474 0 0 10 févr. 2023 I made an improvement to my alternative so that I can adjust the rake better rc zeilen 0 1 01 juil. 2022 Forum - Frameless

Des médias sociaux Facebook Voile radio internationale de classe d'un mètre - IOMICA Voile internationale d'un mètre page Boutique de voile radio MYA Radio Racing et Voile Libre Club de voile Lincoln L'OIM construit en bois en Australie Flickr Photos et vidéos de l'OIM Instagram #iomsailin g (vous devrez peut-être vous connecter à votre compte) l'Internet Forum OIM du groupe RC

Hiérarchie des associations (Lien vers les sites en bleu) World Sailing est responsable de la promotion du sport à l'international ; gérer la voile aux Jeux Olympiques et Paralympiques; développer les règles de course à la voile et les règlements pour toutes les compétitions de voile ; la formation des juges, arbitres et autres administrateurs ; le développement du sport dans le monde ; et représentant les marins dans toutes les questions concernant le sport. https://www.sailing.org RYA La Royal Yachting Association est l'organisme national pour les dériveurs, les yachts et les croisières à moteur, toutes les formes de course à la voile, les semi-rigides et les bateaux de sport, la planche à voile et les motomarines et un représentant de premier plan pour la navigation fluviale. https://www.rya.org.uk/Pages/Home.aspx Association internationale de radio voile (IRSA) IRSA est l'organisation mondiale de radio voile en tant que membre affilié de World Sailing. L'IRSA se consacre à l'amélioration des classes de voile radio mondiales actuelles et émergentes grâce à la promotion et au développement de règles de classe cohérentes, de méthodes de mesure, de règles de course de yachting radio et de conseils pour organiser des événements de course majeurs. https://www.radiosailing.org Association de yachting modèle La Model Yachting Association (MYA) a été créée en 1911 sous le nom de Model Yacht Racing Association, changeant son nom pour le titre actuel en 1923. Nous sommes chanceux et fiers d'avoir le patronage de Son Altesse Royale le Prince Philip. Le MYA est une association de clubs dont les membres peuvent adhérer au MYA pour profiter de tous les avantages offerts par l'adhésion. La MYA est l'autorité nationale pour la radio et la voile libre au Royaume-Uni et est affiliée et reconnue par la Royal Yachting Association et l' International Radio Sailing Association (IRSA) fournissant des liens directs avec World Sailing et nous permettant d'avoir une influence sur le règles régissant notre sport https://mya-uk.org.uk Association de classe internationale de l'OIM (IOMICA) L'IOMICA a trois grands domaines de responsabilité : les règles de classe, les épreuves internationales et les jaugeurs de classe. Il exerce ces responsabilités sous la juridiction de la Division Radio Voile de l'ISAF : http://www.iomclass.org/ Association de classe nationale GBR La National Class Association (NCA) pour GBR est la voix des propriétaires de GBR IOM au Conseil mondial de l'IOMICA. La NCA pour GBR est chargée de veiller à ce que les propriétaires de GBR soient en mesure de faire part de leurs points de vue à l'International One Meter Class Association (IOMICA) et de proposer et de voter sur des propositions de règles de classe et d'administration sur la scène mondiale. Tout membre MYA avec une OIM enregistrée est automatiquement membre de la NCA, une inscription supplémentaire n'est plus requise. www.iomgbr.co.uk Le capitaine de classe nationale est Malcolm Appleton Autres associations de classe et leurs liens Argentine (Le lien ne fonctionne pas) Australie BAR (Le lien ne fonctionne pas) la Belgique Brésil Canada le Chili Croatie Danemark Espagne Finlande (Le lien ne fonctionne pas) La France GB Allemagne Irlande (Le lien ne fonctionne pas) Israël v Italie Malte Pays-Bas Norvège Nouvelle-Zélande le Portugal Afrique du Sud Suisse Suède Turquie Etats-Unis