Search Results

Getting round the course (Click on a heading) Start 1st Windward leg Windward mark rounding Run Leeward Mark 2nd windward leg Last windward leg Finish After sailing

Members: Members_Page

Temps Que souhaitez-vous savoir Les prévisions ne sont vraiment pertinentes que pour la navigation en eau libre. La meilleure partie d'une prévision sur un étang avec des arbres est de voir s'il va pleuvoir. Les détails Une prévision n'est pas du tout pertinente pour le yachting modèle sur un étang entouré d'arbres. La prévision pourrait être de 25 nœuds de vent mais l'étang pourrait ne connaître que 15 nœuds maximum dans les rafales. Mieux vaut descendre tôt au lac et observer ce qui se passe et peut-être mettre votre bateau sur l'eau pour tester les conditions et même avoir un peu d'entraînement effronté. Il est utile de savoir si le vent va osciller dans la journée par exemple lors du passage d'un front. Vous pourrez peut-être repérer un changement dans la configuration des vents sur l'étang lorsque la balançoire commence. Une prévision de pluie ou d'orage sera pertinente pour déterminer les vêtements appropriés. Une prévision pour naviguer sur un yacht radio en eau libre, par exemple West Kirby, Lincoln, Fleetwood, ou sur la mer, est beaucoup plus pertinente. La vitesse et la direction du vent prévues deviennent vraies et vous pouvez presque choisir votre plate-forme à l'arrière de celle-ci et tout changement au cours de la journée peut être prédit ou au moins observé et traité en conséquence. Un anémomètre bon marché peut également aider si les conditions sont à la limite entre les plates-formes (voir Amazon). Bien sûr, vous aurez préalablement collecté des données pertinentes afin de pouvoir sélectionner le bon gréement en fonction de la vitesse du vent. Il existe de nombreuses applications météo, Windy, Wind Guru, Weather Pro, Met Office. Personnellement, je trouve Windy très utile, mais il vaut mieux demander ce que les habitants utilisent car leur application devrait être la plus pertinente pour votre emplacement. En résumé La connaissance des prévisions de vent est pertinente en eau libre mais sur un étang, l'observation et les tests sont le seul moyen de déterminer les conditions. Liens Venteux Anémomètre Lisez la critique la plus positive .

Building an IOM. (Click on a heading) Introduction and cost Acquire the plan Build the plug First Alternative Build The Optimised Alternative build Build the rigs Add the sails Weigh and check measure The end result

Règles et tactiques de course « Apprenez les règles comme un pro, pour pouvoir les enfreindre comme un artiste. » - Pablo Picasso Que souhaitez-vous savoir Séminaire enregistré sur les règles de RYA Racing Changements dans les nouvelles règles de course 2021-2024 Le livre de règles et les études de cas Ressources complètes sur les règles de course pour les concurrents, juges et autres officiels de course Testez vos connaissances Les détails Si vous prévoyez de courir cet été, vous devez avoir au moins une compréhension rudimentaire des règles de course. Par exemple, bâbord cède le passage à tribord, le bateau qui dépasse reste à l'écart, la place à la marque doit être donnée à tout bateau engagé à l'intérieur de la zone (à 4 longueurs de bateau de la marque) et ainsi de suite. Le respect des règles vous garantit de ne pas contrarier vos concurrents. Bien sûr, pour les coureurs sérieux, les règles représentent une opportunité et peuvent être utilisées pour obtenir un avantage tactique. Par exemple, à l'approche de la marque au vent, le bord final à tribord (en supposant une marque d'arrondi bâbord) doit être d'au moins 2 longueurs de bateau en dehors de la zone. De cette façon, vous avez des droits sur tout bateau bâbord amure qui s'approche de la marque et doit virer de bord dans la zone. Après leur virement de bord, ils n'auront plus aucun droit et s'ils vous font dévier de votre cap, ils encourront une pénalité. Saviez-vous qu'un bateau à l'arrêt sur la ligne de départ devient un obstacle et que vous pouvez donc appeler l'eau sur un autre bateau si vous contournez l'obstacle. Juste un exemple de l'application des règles par le livre de quiz sur les règles de l'association américaine de voile. Vous ferez bien d'avoir une compréhension claire des règles au départ, aux obstacles et aux marques car il y a beaucoup à gagner ou à perdre en manipulant les règles à votre avantage. Il est également sage d'être clair sur la façon dont vous hélerez. Vous devez être clair et concis. Il y a des appels définis dans les règles que vous êtes autorisé à faire, par exemple 23 Place pour virer, appeler une réclamation (24 réclamations 06), bateau 98 hors de contrôle et il y a des appels tactiques, par exemple tribord, rester debout, engagement, marquer la place, non chambre de marque. Un dernier point sur les grêlons, assurez-vous qu'ils soient forts et clairs afin que tous vos concurrents puissent les entendre car ils se propagent peut-être le long du rivage. Ressource complète de règles de course pour les concurrents, juges et autres officiels de course RacingRulesofsailing.org Le livre de règles est ici avec les livres de cas : https://www.rya.org.uk/racing/racing-rules/Pages/racing-rules-downloads.aspx L'annuaire de World Sailing pour la navigation radio Le but de ce livre est de fournir, pour les concurrents et les officiels de course, des interprétations approuvées des règles de course lors de la navigation sous RCV, y compris l'annexe E, Radio Sailing Racing Rules. https://www.sailing.org/documents/caseandcall/call_book_radio.php Voici les liens vers le séminaire RYA Rules organisé en 2020 Introduction aux règles de course https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tFCuwTuW200 Le début https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KanGIVzhym0 La jambe au vent https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wyOx5TAahw4 Marques Partie 1 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BzmP5BMkVgE La course https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JQxeasGGr-s Notes partie 2 Masterclass https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xMTYEgv8WjE Un site vraiment utile pour les courses de yachts miniatures par un juge senior de Voile Canada couvrant les changements dans les règles de course 2021-2024 et les éléments bonus, y compris la différence entre le bon parcours, la place des marques et le droit de passage, est ici : https://sites.google.com/site/johnsrcsailingrulesandtactics/home Pour mettre vos connaissances en pratique, voici un super jeu que j'ai trouvé sur le web. L'interface est un peu maladroite mais elle mettra vos connaissances à l'épreuve. http://game.finckh.net/indexe.htm Un autre bon test de connaissances est ici https://www.ussailing.org/competition/rules-officiating/dave-perrys-100-best-racing-rules-quizzes/ finalement https://www.rcgroups.com/sailboats-59/ . Un fil est sur les règles (le quatrième fil vers le bas quand j'ai regardé, dirigé par un gourou canadien des règles locales, John Ball. il n'a pas été juge depuis un moment mais je pense qu'il fait maintenant partie du comité des règles de l'IRSA et assez bien. À quelques reprises, le juge international Gordon Davies intervient.

The Project I have sailed an IOM for two years and think I am beginning to understand how the boats are fitted together and pimped for speed. My challenge with racing the IOM is dealing with speed in a breeze so a sensible solution to developing my skill was to buy a faster boat and get used to the speed as well as understand how another boat design work and could be optimised. In looking into the Marblehead designs, I note that the Grunge is the boat of choice but unfortunately there were none available when I looked. The were a few Starkers designs available built by Dave Creed which seemed to be a good platform to get me started and one in particular took my eye so I took the plunge and bought it. Over the autumn and winter this year, my plan is to optimise the boat. It has a standard A rig, B, C 1,2,3. The A is a standard swing rig and the others conventional. All will need re rigging as the cord is over four years old and whilst not used cannot be considered to be reliable. The next section looks at the jobs list on the new boat.

Réglage d'un IOM (sans ordre particulier) Réunion zoom Brad Gibson Yacht club modèle de Central Park Tutoriel Jib Pivot Voilier RC Fiche Kantuns et configuration rc Voilier RC Construire une plate-forme BG voiles et conception Guide de réglage du gréement BG Sails BG voiles et conception Guide de Zvonko Jelacic Kantun 2 Voilier RC Comment installer votre gréement Ian Vickers Questions fréquemment posées Sailsetc Pack de gréement Sailsetc Mise en place d'un gréement Quai Peter Sutton Dell US Tuning de l'OIM Marins radiocommandés Anacortes Réglage de la voile Roger Stollery Faire un fil Bowsie Roger Stollery Bourgeois Roger Stollery Informations techniques sur les maquettes de yachts Lester Gilbert Faire un gréement Lester Gilbert Conseils de réglage JG Voiles Construire une plate-forme IOM JG Voiles Configuration du gréement Conception de Frank Russell Configuration et réglage du rig de Rubik John Taylor, yachts faits sur mesure Comment accorder un Shiraz John Taylor, yachts faits sur mesure Discussion de prépliage Forum de l'OIM Faire un gréement Lester Gilbert Réglage du gréement Mise à jour de l'OIM de Seatle John Ball CYRA Arrondissement de la marque au vent Mise à jour de l'OIM de Seatle John Ball Cliquez ici Pour d' autres mises à jour intéressantes de l'OIM à Seattle Entretien avec Brad Gibson Mise à jour de l'OIM de Seatle. Faites défiler vers le bas pour l'interview 2012

Craig Richards Tuning guide (Page 2) A Rig forestay tension: The A rig is the only suite where I change forestay tension. The rest have the forestay as tight as I can get it until I start worrying about breaking the boat or having the mast go out of column. You never want the forestay to pump or flog upwind, so for each increasing wind condition you go just a bit tighter so that you get a bit of sag, but no pumping. At the very top of A, the tighter the better and do not let it sag. The sag and a loose jib cunnigham seem to put a bit more fullness into the front of the jib and with very sensitive telltales you can see that the fuller the jib entry the longer the flow seems to stay attached to the leeward side of the jib. This is particularly helpful in very dirty air with lots of wind switches etc. The forestay length on my boat varies from 1138 to 1132mm from the lightest to strongest conditions. My go to setting when I am unsure turns out to be 1135 just as the rigging guide suggests. It will also depend on how much your backstay stretches, I use the below on my backstay: As Per Krabbe has kindly pointed out, dyneema lines are prone to shrinking. I have marks to quickly put the rigs into the boat (last minute change before heat etc), which I do check before each regatta, but over a few days the lines may still change length. I have a fairly good feeling now for what the rig should look like, but it's probably a good idea to check the lengths regularly. This is how I set up my main sheeting angle on the A rig: I put the palm of my hand against the aft quarter of the boat and when sighting from astern I have my fingers parallel to the backstay. With my hand in this position the main boom just touches my fingers. No measurments, no confusion and very easy to repeat. Yes it's wider than just about every tuning guide suggests, but at this point I am just setting up consistent sheeting angles of the main and jib (to follow in next post) With the main sheeting angle set, the jib is then trimmed such that the hole in back of the jib boom fitting is over the first knuckle on the deck. It's close to 60mm between the middle of the mast and the inner edge of the boom. In my case its also exactly the width of my three middle fingers. I posted some pictures Sue Brown took, but the posts seem to have disappeared. I seem to have put the link on my main profile and not this group ..lol. http://www.flickr.com/.../in/album-72177720308506905/... I do sail with the setting I posted. Here is my go fast mode: I run 20mm foot depths on the main and jib as a starting point. In this mode I want the boat to run with absolutely neutral helm. It can hunt the breeze slightly, but must never luff up and slow down. I never want to be pulling the bow down with the rudder. I may trim in and and push the bow up. This is absolutely the best VMG mode in the absence of other boats. You will go faster and end up higher than a boat that sails only in pinch mode. I use the bottom draft strip a lot. I want to see the maximum depth at 50% and a clean straight entry after the mast. If the fullness is further forward I flatten the foot of the mainsail further If the boat is running with a bit of weather helm as the breeze increases I will first flatten the main off to about 10mm and if that does not work I will change the trim to let the main out slightly further, but leave the jib the same. I will also flatten the jib down to 10mm at the very top end of A, but only after the main is already down to 10mm. The neutral helm also has the advantage that when I am unsighted and cant see the boat it is still sailing flat out without my input. This is also a big advantage when the boat is too far away to see clearly. That lower tell tale on the main is a great trim indicator. It should fly at a slight up angle on the weather side of about 20 degrees. In this photo it says I am sailing a fraction lower than optimum and I should push the boat up with the rudder. The neutral helm has one further huge advantage. As I tack, once I am on the new heading I seldom need to keep on some weather helm until the boat gets its speed up again and starts tracking. The boat also tacks much more cleanly as a result and I stall less when I make a mistake. I.e. its much easier to get the boat going again from a bad tack. And a great picture of John. He sheets the main in a bit more than I do, but the jib is still quite wide. This is probably his pinch mode though and if he dropped the main slightly so the jib is over the deck knuckle we would be quite close in setup. One difference is that the entry angle on the main on Johns boat at the first draft stripe is a bit wider than mine, so he would need to sheet a bit closer. My entry looks a lot flatter, so I can sheet the boom out a bit and still have a similar entry angle. This could be because I have a bit more mast bend coupled with less luff curve. I actively set my mast bend so that the luff at this height moves behind the mast. I.e. the luff sits on the centre line, not to leeward of the mast. Notice how flat he now runs his main foot depth. I was running 20mm, but John looks to be even flatter. It's also a great picture for showing the twist in the sails and a perfect example of how the twist in the jib parallels the back of the main. Active trim: My high mode has the jib width at 45-50mm, about 1cm - 1,5cm in from my best VMG mode. I have the ratchet set for the mainsail trim on my radio. I Move the trim/throttle stick on the radio so that it is two ratchet clicks up. This is the radio setting that I want to see my VMG sail setting at. I use the subtrim buttons on my radio to move the sails to that setting. With the trim all the way in I now want the jib to be at 50mm or perhaps even 45mm in very flat water. Depending on the radio, two clicks may move the trim in more than the desired 1-1.5cm so you would need to change your throttle curve. The radio I used at Fleetwood did not need it, but my newer radio moves the sheet too far and I have set a throttle curve. If there are boats around me and I need height, I will start with the boat at two clicks out and then once it up at full speed, I start to bleed the boat up as I trim in. Often you can carry a high fast mode for a length of time, but if I hit a bad wave or header and the boat slows then its immediately trim to the two clicks position, get the speed back and then work the boat up again one or two clicks. If I am in clear air and chasing then I found the boat very fast at two clicks out and did not trim in much The higher trim mode is also very useful if you get THAT boat below you that is racing only you and the fleet disappears into the distance whilst they try and luff the heck out of you. Your race is still toast, but at least it does give you some time to find a gap to tack away in. If you do have some space to leeward, then even with the wider trim you may be pleasantly surprised to see that you don't lose height and will roll over them quite quickly. I'll try and do a bit on twist, but here is a hint that I do not have enough twist in the top of my jib. Camber stripes are your friend. The bottom windward telltale is running at the angle I like, but the top one suggests I have mucked up the trim. It should match the bottom as closely as possible. Mains twist. Finicky beast. Half a turn on the vang can make a surprising difference. I can only suggest a starting point and then fiddle with small changes until the boat looks and behaves to your preferences. Looking at the boat from behind when the boat is on the water and using the picture of John's boat as a template would be a good start. Looking down the backstay from behind the boat, I want the main leech to parallel the backstay between the top two battens. It was difficult to take a photo, but fairly obvious in real life Jib Twist. I like the jib leech to parallel the back of the main for as far as possible. The upper third of the jib should also parallel the main entry angle as far as possible. Top of jib and upper third of main should start to luff at the same time as you head up into the wind. Earlier I posted a near perfect picture of John Tushingham and now I hope he forgives me for posting one a bit more ugly This was taken a month before the Globals and I think I had an edge on boat speed in this race. I never saw his boat look like this in the Globals and want to use this to point out how top sailors like him are prepared to adapt and experiment. In this photo we have similar rake, but I am running a more bent mast, with flatter sails. A much finer entry for the main as a result, which should result in a cleaner and wider slot between the back of the main and the jib. The difference in speed was very small, but even a cm or two of extra speed helps get your nose out in a crowded start and makes you look like a better sailor. Compare this to his globals setup B-Rig Quick reminder that these are my settings and opinions and are not the only way to do things. I was not very fond of the B-rig, but took the opportunity to go out and sail whenever there was enough wind in the evenings. After a few sessions of just buggering around with silly settings I started to really enjoy these sessions as the B-rig has such brilliant contrast between just sailing and sailing fast and once you found the faster settings the boat itself became increasingly easier to sail. I went into the first B-rig race at the Globals not knowing if I had got it right as I have had nobody to sail against. In short it was a very pleasant surprise and I had speed to burn. As the regatta wore on I made a few mistakes (getting off the lee shore etc) and started to second guess myself and changed the setting to trim a bit narrower, which was a mistake in retrospect, but I was not too stessed as I could still hang in for a top 3 in most races. The fastest boat was probably sail number 121. A bit inconsistent, but when he got it right had a definite edge towards the end of the regatta. There could be some advantage to the icarex sail material in these conditions, but if anything this boat was sheeting the jib wider than I do when it was flying. If you set the B-rig up anything like the A, the first thing you will most likely notice is lee helm and the first attempt to fix this would be to pull the main up to the centreline. It does balance the boat, but the groove becomes very narrow and it's hard to keep the boat going fast and tacking can become a bit harder. What worked for me was. As much aft rake as possible to take out some of the lee helm. I wanted the flattest entry angle possible with the maximum camber back at 50% in the lower third. So I bent the mast to take out all the luff curve. All 5mm of it. The tightest forestay possible, just short of breaking the boat. It makes the boat easier to tack and also takes shape out of the jib keeping the entry flatter. I wanted the widest main I could get away with and to keep things consistent I start with the main boom against the palm of my hand when my fingers are parallel to the backstay as normal. Most of the other boats do sheet a bit closer. Good, I feel I am faster. With the main boom in this position the jib boom is now over the side of the boat. 65-70mm between the mast and jib boom. I do have a 'point' mode where the jib may come in to 55-60mm, which could be used off the start line, but once clear I am sheeting out again. The jib is flat, 10mm-15 mm foot depth. The jib twist is still parallel to the back of the main, but you can twist it off a bit more at the very top of B rig conditions. The main is flat. I run 15mm, but JohnT is even flatter at 10mm or less. There is a fair amount of twist in the main, which you can get away with as with the luff curve taken out by the bent mast the slot is already very wide. The more twist you have, the faster the boat, but the limit is when the top third starts to backwind. I start with the main twist setting as follows. With the main at the VMG setting, sighting up the backstay a line drawn through the bottom two mainsail battens is parallel to the backstay. Run out of time. Will add a bit more later In the meanwhile here is a nice picture of John, over the start line , but a nice example of a fast setup B rig Sheeting Angle: More detail to follow, but its wider than you think. Three fingers will no longer do the trick. B rig: Backstay and mast: Bend that baby. Luff curve matches back of mast the entire length. Standard or 'stock' luff curve. Flat sails. Jib down at less than 15mm foot depth. I run 15mm on the main. JohnT was flatter. B-rig: More mast curve: B-Rig Main twist: Phone camera perspective mucks thing up, but a line through the ends of the bottom two battens is parallel to the backstay B-rig: Mast Curve

The DF 95 Project Here is the story of my entry into the world of DF 95. I launch a new boat on 14/6/23 and sailed in my first TT event the following Sunday. With the Tips from Richard Calas at Emsworth and Craig Richards from his facebook posts I was able to be competitive from the start. There is no point reinventing the wheel so rather than post ideas on setup, I start with Craig's wonderful series of articles on facebook on how to set your boat up and then I will add my own observations. The DF95 is a great one design boat and I have no regrets moving into the class. It is a delight to sail and the only way you will get more speed than someone else is by achieving a better setup or sailing better. What more can you want. Starting with the build I was given some helpful advice: It is worth applying Epoxy all deck eyes. Unscrew, apply a tiny amount of epoxy and re-screw to seal all the deck fittings. Use epoxy when assembling the booms to give time to align the components. I upgraded to the newer brushless rudder servo as I thought the upgrade would be more reliable when centering the rudder. A lesson I learned on the IOM I bought 3 1000mAh life batteries from rc yachts as they were the cheapest supplier I chopped the top of the on/off switch as when I turned to port the electrics neatly switched off as the servo arm hit the on off switch. I bent the wire connector between the rudder servo and the tiller ever so slightly, so it did not catch on the deck hatch housing as this was straining the servo. I counter sunk the servo tray screws so the hatch sat neatly in its housing I threaded cord through the bung and added a restrainer to stop it coming out. This way I could empty the boat without ever losing the bung. I drilled a second hole on the A rig can for the mainsail fastening, 5 mm aft of the supplied hole Left the top sail tie loose on the A rig so sail flops nicely from side to side. I used fine cord to tie the sails to the mast. Every knot is secured with super glue. The assembly instructions are spot on although they only cover the A rig and could add a few comments about the B_D rigs.. Whilst the specs on the DF web site were good for the mast and boom. it took me a while to figure where do you attach the jib tacks and jib sheet eyes. Put a bigger knot on the topping lift inside boom. Be very careful with the jib wire terminals on the jibs. I have already had one ferrule that slipped. On my IOM, I terminate the wire by bending the wire using a Dupro tool. Might do that in the long term on the DF. Put thick lines on the sails so you can see if you are pointing to high or have a backwinding mainsail. These are all simple tasks which I hope will improve the longevity of the boat or make it more efficient. With no boat speed advantage to be had it is all about the sailing, much of which I cover in racing an IOM. Whilst the tuning details are specific to the IOM, the rest applies to any class. Maybe the heading should be Racing a radio controlled yacht. Taking on board the advice I was given, led to a 2nd in the first TT event at Manor Park splitting John Tushingham and Craig Richards. This is the only warm up prior to the nationals. The blog tells the story and learnings from the event.

Quelques livres que vous aimeriez lire Théorie Théorie et pratique de la voile par CA Marchaj 1964 Aéro-hydrodynamique de la voile par CA Marchaj 1979 Performance de voile par CA Marchaj 1996 Voile de haute performance par Frank Bethwaite 2010 (2e édition) S'entraîner Expert en dériveur par Paul Elvstrom 1963 Vent et stratégie par Stuart Walker 1973 Championnat de voile en dériveur par Christopher Caswell et David Ullman 1978 Regarder les voiles par Bruce Banks / Dick Kenny 1979 Gagnant - La psychologie de la concurrence par Stuart Walker 1980 Tactiques de course avancées par Stuart Walker 1981 Naviguez, faites la course et gagnez par Eric Twiname 1982 Ceci est Boat Tuning for Speed par Fred Imhoff / Lex Pranger 1984 Naviguer pour gagner - Dinghy Helming par Lawrie Smith 1983 - Stratégie éolienne par David Houghton 1984 - Réglage de votre dériveur par Lawrie Smith 1985 - Boatspeed par Rodney Pattisson / Tim Davison 1986 Manuel d'entraînement de course RYA par Jim Saltonstall 1983 Mes remerciements à Brian Outram (Australie) pour sa liste de lecture Faites-moi savoir vos livres préférés afin que je puisse les ajouter à la liste

Autres fournisseurs Royaume-Uni Fibre de verre de la côte est Balances de précision Dremel - essentiel pour la construction de maisons en fibre de verre Lanières de cèdre Compagnie de bande de cèdre Maquettes de bateaux de Cornouailles Compte à rebours Anémomètre à vent nous Commencez ici à l'American Model Yacht Association

Avant un événement Déterminez quel est votre objectif en voile Connaître ton règles et tactiques de course Gérez votre investissement avec prudence entretien de bateaux Naviguez vite avec le droit réglage et configuration du bateau Connaître vos radiocommandes Efficace pratique du bateau Assurez une configuration cohérente en utilisant listes de contrôle Savoir comment le la météo t'aidera Utile les références