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The new optimised Alternative boat build When I play golf, if I drive off the tee and lose my ball because of an errant swing, why is it that my second attempt is nearly always perfect making me wonder why didn't I swing like that on my first shot! It's kind of like that when you build a second boat. The first attempt is full of small errors, air bubbles, lifted glass at the bow and stern, too much epoxy used, etc. The second boat has errors but it is much better and lighter. I started the second boat yesterday afternoon and unwrapped it this morning and what a beauty she looks. If you are interested, here is what I did with a few pictures. I started by repairing the old hull plug, patching up some damage when I cut the previous boat off the plug with a dremel. After a rub down and 5 coats of release wax it was good as new and ready for the layup. I cut out 3 sheets of 124gm S glass from a paper pattern I made earlier. I acquired 3 sheets of brown paper which were from a delivery of an old flower arrangement (my wife's!). With care, I cut the glass cloth straight onto the brown paper from the paper pattern I made earlier. The cloth was cut with no mess. In addition to the cutting, I drew a centre line with a felt pen and perpendicular lines (to the centreline) for the bow, stern and edge of the foredeck. This is done to allow easy alignment (when laying down the cloth onto the plug) with a centreline drawn down the keel of the hull along with a mark to indicate the foredeck. The brown paper not only seperated the 3 layers of cloth but also allows the cloth to be rolled up and carried as well as protecting the edges, keeping the cloth flat and clean. (Image 1) Last summer on the first boat build, I cut the glass outside on a table, did not use any paper or protective cover and ended up with strands of glass fibre all over the patio! With the cloth prepared, I was ready to lay the hull up in the garden shed. Yesterday it was about 12 degrees which is just warm enough to work with epoxy. I needed a workbench to clamp the hull upside down (Image 4), a piece of wood hanging from the shed ceiling to screw the plug support post to work on the deck (Image 3), paper towel to wipe up mess, acetone for cleaning, nitril gloves to protect my hands, West System epoxy (slow cure), three plastic pots (I use fromage frais pots), a 2 inch paint brush and an aluminium roller for removing air bubbles, peel ply for wrapping the epoxy, screwdriver and electric drill for mounting and dismounting the plug. With all the bits together on site, I was ready to go. After mixing the epoxy using the self measuring plungers that you screw on the resin and hardener tins (3 pushes of the plunger will do one layer of glass) I applied resin to the hull side of the plug, being careful to wet the curves of the deck. The epoxy will not lie smooth on the wax and will pull back into globules looking a bit messy but it won't matter. Taking the first layer of cloth and with the boat mounted upside down on the workbench, hold it over the hull aligning the centreline, bow, stern and foredeck marks before laying the cloth down on the epoxied plug. (Image 2 3 and 4) Gently smooth out the cloth with the paint brush and work out from the centre until the cloth is flat all over. This is quite fiddly but by taking time and being patient the cloth will lay out perfectly. Next step is to go over the cloth with the paint brush (be very gentle) and wetting the cloth where dry, removing air bubbles as you go. Use the epoxy sparingly as excess resin just adds weight. Finally go over the hull with the aluminium roller to get any missed air bubbles. Now remove the plug from the workbench and screw to the bar dropping from the shed ceiling. Initially fix the hull upside down and then carefully allow the plug to rotate down while supporting the cloth over the deck, until the deck is level. (In my first build last summer, I picked the plug from the workbench after wetting the cloth on the hull, rotated it so the deck was uppermost, raised it up to the supporting bar and the glass cloth fell off onto the floor. You have been warned!) Before you work the cloth into the deck with the paintbrush, cut away any excess. On the first layer I used a 1 inch overlap. On the second layer, I butt the ends of the cloth (ie no overlap) and on the third layer use an overlap again. In this way you avoid too much weight along the centreline of the deck. On my first boat I ended up with 6 layers of cloth on the centreline which produced a strong boat but heavy in the ends. Work the cloth into the deck with the paint brush in the same way as the hull, until flat and smooth. Sorry there are no pictures of this as my gloves were coated in epoxy at the time! Check over the hull and deck in good light to make sure there are no air bubbles and the cloth is tightly bonded at the bow and stern. Leave the plug until the epoxy remaining in your mixing jug starts to go stringy. When this happens, the first layer of cloth will be stuck nicely to the plug and won't move when you apply the second layer. The longer you can leave it between layers the better. Half an hour should be long enough. Wash your paint brush, gloves and roller in acetone and mix the second batch of epoxy. Bin the 1st mixing pot. For the second layer, drape the cloth over the hull taking care with the alignment marks and brush out as before using just enough epoxy to wet the cloth. Repeat for the third layer remembering to clean tools in between. I use four plunges of epoxy for the last layer because I wanted the outer layer slightly wetter. Any excess would be absorbed by the peel ply. Finally wrap in peel ply. I used 10 metres of 100mm wide. Overkill I know but it did an amazing job even though the hull look a bit mummy like. (Image 5) At the same time as laying up the hull, I made the components in Image 8. 9. 10. 14, 15 and 18. The fin box was Dave Creed's work. A thin sheet for the bow stern and bulkheads The mould for the deck layout above the fin box and final deck Strip of S glass for bonding the deck Reinforcement for the fordeck understanding the jib tack eyes The radio pot and forward bulkhead Paper template for forward bulkhead I peeled the peel ply off this morning to discover a hull with no air bubbles, perfect adhesion at the bow, stern and foredeck. In all the process took about 3 hours All I need now are two coats of epoxy primer rubbed smooth and I am ready to pop the hull off the plug. Here is the rough finish prior to sanding The finished hull popped off the mould safely in its supporting jig with the deck taped together to hold it secure It all looks good and I know that the hull is useable so I can pay the second design fee and fit the boat out. Having added two coats of epoxy primer, it is time to rub it all back to the surface of the S glass to make the hull as light and as smooth as possible. Up to two hours sanding. Joy! but the end result is worth the effort. After painting on 250gms of High build epoxy primer, I sanded 200gms off on Saturday. The result is a very light smooth hull which you can see through. The hull will remain in this condition until the deck has been finished and all the holes drilled. Then it is time for the vinyl wrap in metallic blue. Can't wait to see how it ends up when cut off the mould. Once the hull is off the mould it goes straight into a support jig, with the frames cut from the design plan. This jig is marked and used for setting the fin position and rudder. (Image 7) The foredeck and aft deck is bonded using 1 layer of 124gm s cloth (Image 13). The hull is strong and ready for the fin box, bulkhead and adjoining deck and radio pot to be bonded in. On Sunday I cut all the access holes, (Image 33) and added two further layers of S glass around the fin box area in the hull, bonded the deck with an extra layer of S glass at the jib take off point and fitted the transom I put small reinforcing plates in the deck at the stern and put 1 layer of S glass about 1 inch wide down the centre of the foredeck. All up weight of the hull with all glass infrastructure but ex fitting will be around 400gms, considerably lighter than my first hull especially in the ends but heavier than the professional hulls. Having said that the hull is very strong, light in the ends and should be competitive. Todays job is to fit the fin, bulkhead, deck moulding and radio pot and a post for the jib tack take off point. On course to finished hull by end of week. A long day sealing the bow and stern, (Image 18 and 19) strengthening the foredeck, building an ultra light foredeck post (Image 14), cutting a slot in the hull (Image 21), measuring and shaping the forward bulkhead (Image 15 and 16) , fin case and deck. Lots of pictures below in a slightly random order. Tomorrow I hope to bond in all the pieces and then the only other major jobs are to fit the plates for the servo and rudder stock which will likely be done on Wednesday. Then a final rub down and drill all the holes for the deck fittings. Finally after that I can wrap the boat in its metallic blue vinyl. Its an experiment but I am sure it will be worth the effort and if it doesn't work I can always paint it. Fitting the fin Yesterday was all about getting the fin box fitted. Alignment of the fin in exactly the right position with the design measurements and having it vertical is the most critical job on the boat. Get this wrong and the boat will be hard to balance and may sail higher on one tack that the other. The boat in my jig is set up to be level on its water line, ie there is a horizontal line connection the bottom of the bow and bottom of the stern. The leading edge of the fin sits perpendicular to this line. Get the jig right and everything is easy. On the plan there are two measurements, one from the hull to the leading edge of the fin and then one from the tip of the bow to the bottom of the fin where it enters the bulb. Set these measurements and the fin leading edge should be perpendicular tp the waterline of the boat. I was less than a degree out. See image 24-27. To get the fin exactly vertical looking from the stern, I level the boat at the shroud point and use a level on the fin to make vertical and then use masking tape to secure it. Gravity helps in picture 27. The string in the picture is used to measure from the bow to the fin but I did have to make holes in the jig. Tomorrow, I can fit the final pieces of the deck and the bulkhead. Finishing the bonding Yesterday was gluing day. Fitted the forward deck, pre drilled bulkhead, radio pot holder and mainsheet post. Only one small error. I forgot to seal and reinforce the top of the fin box I have the fiddliest job to do that today plus final fit for the servo mount and rudder stock mount. Nest jobs are to pre drill all the fitting holes, apply filler where required and final sand ready to apply wrap. When fitting the mainsheet post, I accurately measured a centreline at the deck and then did the same with a string 6 inches off the deck. Then using a set square I was able to get the mainsheet post upright and aligned with the fin case, back stay, jib sheet eyes and jib attachment points which are all marked up. Fingers crossed the sails will set the same on both tacks. Hull weight so far is 420gms. Old hull weight at this point 620gms. Maybe 350gms is achievable with a slightly thinner layup. I was generous with the epoxy at the base of the fin but this is where the correctors with be anyway. Estimate approx 400gms of correctors will be required. Tidying up Final bit of reinforcement went in yesterday. Not much to show as boat looks similar to day before but with addition of rudder stock and servo supports. Giving the hull a good t cut to look for any rough spots and then the metallic blue wrap Little remaining jobs to do after the wrap like final fit of fin and add the electronics and fittings Finished the build With the final jobs knocked off on Friday the hull is ready for wrapping. I spent today sanding and cleaning the hull and deck, final fit of the fin and rudder which ended up exactly according to the design plans and are both in line with each other. Tomorrow will be wrapping day. Ordered the new PG tubes from Potters Solutions and a couple of bits and bobs from Sailsetc. Once the boat is wrapped I can set up the new rigs using existing fittings apart from the shrouds. Then a bit of in house tuning and I am ready to get on the water. Its not a wrap The wrap failed. There is so much curvature in the hull and deck, you need to stretch the wrap so much before application and you need several pairs of hands, so it's back to the paint spraying. The boat is finished bar the spray and as Mr Gibson said you are far better off with paint as damaged vinyl is impossible to repair. He should know he used to wrap 18 footers amongst other things. Why didn't I speak to him first. The dream was there, the experience was missing. Loved the metallic finish but it is not to be. Onwards and upwards and off to watch the 18 footers race round Sydney harbour in the JJ Giltinan. On the computer of course Decision time on paint It has been a long process trying to sort the paint for the boat. I could use my tried and tested 2 pack polyurethane which I know is hard durable and the right solution, but I do want to spray to keep the decks looking smart. As you know I tried using vinyl wrap but the curves of the boat proved too much. The search took me to spray cans of epoxy, enamel and other finishes but I came across an industrial acrylic based paint in a spray can. It is designed for repair of industrial coatings indoor or external. Its a risk I know but I prepared a sample this afternoon and it has great colour, is hard, flexible, great UV properties and resistant to scratches. The date sheet is here: http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/3165638.pdf So on it goes tomorrow and we will see how the paint performs. The pictures below show the new spray look on a sample and the effect I am trying to avoid when painting 2 pack Polyurethane. I will show you the result tomorrow and then see how it wears when we get sailing. La nouvelle construction de bateau alternative optimisée Quand je joue au golf, si je pars du tee et que je perds ma balle à cause d'un swing errant, pourquoi ma deuxième tentative est-elle toujours parfaite, me faisant me demander pourquoi je n'ai pas balancé comme ça lors de mon premier coup ! C'est un peu comme ça quand on construit un deuxième bateau. La première tentative est pleine de petites erreurs, de bulles d'air, de verre soulevé à la proue et à la poupe, trop d'époxy utilisé, etc. J'ai démarré le deuxième bateau hier après-midi et je l'ai déballé ce matin et quelle beauté elle a l'air. Si cela vous intéresse, voici ce que j'ai fait avec quelques photos. J'ai commencé par réparer l'ancien bouchon de coque, en réparant quelques dommages lorsque j'ai coupé le bateau précédent du bouchon avec un dremel. Après un frottement et 5 couches de cire antiadhésive, il était comme neuf et prêt pour le layup. J'ai découpé 3 feuilles de verre 124gm S à partir d'un patron en papier que j'ai fait plus tôt. J'ai acquis 3 feuilles de papier brun qui provenaient d'une livraison d'un vieil arrangement floral (celui de ma femme !). Avec soin, j'ai découpé le tissu de verre directement sur le papier brun à partir du patron de papier que j'ai fait plus tôt. Le tissu a été coupé sans gâchis. En plus de la coupe, j'ai tracé une ligne médiane avec un feutre et des lignes perpendiculaires (à la ligne médiane) pour la proue, la poupe et le bord du pont avant. Ceci est fait pour permettre un alignement facile (lors de la pose du tissu sur le bouchon) avec une ligne médiane tracée le long de la quille de la coque avec une marque pour indiquer le pont avant. Le papier brun a non seulement séparé les 3 couches de tissu, mais permet également d'enrouler et de transporter le tissu, tout en protégeant les bords, en gardant le tissu plat et propre. (Image 1) L'été dernier lors de la construction du premier bateau, j'ai coupé le verre à l'extérieur sur une table, je n'ai utilisé ni papier ni housse de protection et je me suis retrouvé avec des brins de fibre de verre partout dans le patio ! Le tissu préparé, j'étais prêt à poser la coque dans l'abri de jardin. Hier, il faisait environ 12 degrés, ce qui est juste assez chaud pour travailler avec de l'époxy. J'avais besoin d'un établi pour serrer la coque à l'envers (Image 4), un morceau de bois suspendu au plafond du hangar pour visser le poteau de support de prise pour travailler sur le pont (Image 3), une serviette en papier pour essuyer les dégâts, de l'acétone pour le nettoyage , des gants en nitrile pour protéger mes mains, de l'époxy West System (polymérisation lente), trois pots en plastique (j'utilise des pots de fromage frais), un pinceau de 2 pouces et un rouleau en aluminium pour éliminer les bulles d'air, une couche de pelage pour envelopper l'époxy, un tournevis et perceuse électrique pour le montage et le démontage de la fiche. Avec tous les morceaux réunis sur place, j'étais prêt à partir. Après avoir mélangé l'époxy à l'aide des pistons auto-doseurs que vous vissez sur les bidons de résine et de durcisseur (3 pressions du piston feront une couche de verre) j'ai appliqué de la résine sur le côté coque du bouchon en prenant soin de bien mouiller les courbes du plate-forme. L'époxy ne reposera pas en douceur sur la cire et se retirera dans les globules ayant l'air un peu en désordre, mais cela n'aura pas d'importance. En prenant la première couche de tissu et avec le bateau monté à l'envers sur l'établi, maintenez-le au-dessus de la coque en alignant les marques de l'axe central, de la proue, de la poupe et du pont avant avant de poser le tissu sur le bouchon époxyde. (Photo 2 3 et 4) Lissez doucement le tissu avec le pinceau et travaillez à partir du centre jusqu'à ce que le tissu soit plat partout. C'est assez délicat, mais en prenant le temps et en étant patient, le tissu s'étendra parfaitement. L'étape suivante consiste à passer le chiffon sur le chiffon (soyez très doux) et à mouiller le chiffon là où il est sec, en éliminant les bulles d'air au fur et à mesure. Utilisez l'époxy avec parcimonie car l'excès de résine ne fait qu'ajouter du poids. Passez enfin sur la coque avec le rouleau en aluminium pour récupérer les éventuelles bulles d'air manquées. Retirez maintenant le bouchon de l'établi et vissez-le à la barre tombant du plafond de la remise. Fixez d'abord la coque à l'envers, puis laissez soigneusement le bouchon tourner vers le bas tout en soutenant le tissu sur le pont, jusqu'à ce que le pont soit de niveau. (Lors de ma première construction l'été dernier, j'ai ramassé le bouchon de l'établi après avoir mouillé le tissu sur la coque, je l'ai fait pivoter pour que le pont soit le plus haut, je l'ai soulevé jusqu'à la barre de support et le tissu de verre est tombé sur le sol. Vous avez été prévenu !) Avant de travailler le tissu dans le pont avec le pinceau, coupez tout excès. Sur la première couche, j'ai utilisé un chevauchement de 1 pouce. Sur la deuxième couche, j'aboute les extrémités du tissu (c'est-à-dire sans chevauchement) et sur la troisième couche, j'utilise à nouveau un chevauchement. De cette façon, vous évitez trop de poids le long de la ligne médiane du pont. Sur mon premier bateau, je me suis retrouvé avec 6 couches de tissu sur la ligne médiane, ce qui a produit un bateau solide mais lourd aux extrémités. Travailler le tissu dans le pont avec le pinceau de la même manière que la coque, jusqu'à ce qu'il soit plat et lisse. Désolé il n'y a pas de photos car mes gants étaient enduits d'époxy à l'époque ! Vérifiez la coque et le pont sous un bon éclairage pour vous assurer qu'il n'y a pas de bulles d'air et que le tissu est bien collé à la proue et à la poupe. Laissez le bouchon jusqu'à ce que l'époxy restant dans votre bol mélangeur commence à devenir filandreux. Lorsque cela se produit, la première couche de tissu sera bien collée au bouchon et ne bougera pas lorsque vous appliquerez la deuxième couche. Plus vous pouvez le laisser longtemps entre les couches, mieux c'est. Une demi-heure devrait suffire. Lavez votre pinceau, vos gants et votre rouleau dans de l'acétone et mélangez le deuxième lot d'époxy. Bin le 1er pot de mélange. Pour la deuxième couche, drapez le tissu sur la coque en faisant attention aux repères d'alignement et brossez comme avant en utilisant juste assez d'époxy pour mouiller le tissu. Répétez l'opération pour la troisième couche en n'oubliant pas de nettoyer les outils entre les deux. J'utilise quatre plongées d'époxy pour la dernière couche car je voulais que la couche extérieure soit légèrement plus humide. Tout excès serait absorbé par la couche pelable. Enfin, enveloppez-le dans un pli pelable. J'ai utilisé 10 mètres de 100 mm de large. Overkill je sais mais il a fait un travail incroyable même si la coque ressemble un peu à une momie. (Photo 5) En même temps, j'ai fait les composants de l'image 8. 9. 10. 14, 15 et 18. La boîte à ailettes était l'œuvre de Dave Creed. J'ai décollé la pellicule ce matin pour découvrir une coque sans bulles d'air, une adhérence parfaite à la proue, à la poupe et au pont avant. Dans tout le processus a pris environ 3 heures Tout ce dont j'ai besoin maintenant, c'est de deux couches d'apprêt époxy frotté et je suis prêt à retirer la coque du bouchon. (Photos 6 et 7) Si tout va bien et que je sais que la coque est utilisable, je peux payer les frais de conception et aménager le bateau. Après avoir ajouté deux couches d'apprêt époxy, il est temps de frotter le tout à la surface du verre S pour rendre la coque la plus légère et la plus lisse possible. Jusqu'à deux heures de ponçage. Joie! mais le résultat final en vaut la chandelle. Après avoir peint sur 250 g d'apprêt époxy à haute résistance, j'ai poncé 200 g samedi. Le résultat est une coque lisse très légère que vous pouvez voir à travers. La coque restera dans cet état jusqu'à ce que le pont soit terminé et tous les trous percés. Ensuite, il est temps pour le vinyle en bleu métallisé. J'ai hâte de voir comment ça se termine une fois coupé le moule. Une fois la coque démoulée, elle passe directement dans un gabarit de support, avec les cadres découpés dans le plan de conception. Ce gabarit est marqué et utilisé pour régler la position de l'aileron et du gouvernail. (Photo 7) Le pont avant et le pont arrière sont collés à l'aide d'une couche de tissu 124 g (Image 13). La coque est solide et prête pour le collage de la boîte à ailerons, de la cloison et du pont et du pot radio adjacents. Dimanche, j'ai coupé tous les trous d'accès (Image 33) et ajouté deux autres couches de verre S autour de la zone de la boîte d'aileron dans la coque, collé le pont avec une couche supplémentaire de verre S au point de décollage du foc et installé le tableau arrière. J'ai mis de petites plaques de renfort dans le pont à l'arrière et j'ai mis 1 couche de verre S d'environ 1 pouce de large au centre du pont avant. Le poids total de la coque avec toute l'infrastructure en verre, mais après montage, sera d'environ 400 g, considérablement plus léger que ma première coque, en particulier aux extrémités, mais plus lourd que les coques professionnelles. Cela dit, la coque est très solide, légère aux extrémités et devrait être compétitive. Le travail d'aujourd'hui consiste à installer l'aileron, la cloison, la moulure de pont et le pot radio et un poteau pour le point de décollage de l'amure de foc. En route pour finir la coque d'ici la fin de la semaine. Une longue journée à sceller la proue et la poupe, (Image 18 et 19) renforcer le pont avant, construire un poste de pont avant ultra léger (Image 14), découper une fente dans la coque (Image 21), mesurer et façonner la cloison avant (Image 15 et 16) , boîtier d'aileron et pont. Beaucoup d'images ci-dessous dans un ordre légèrement aléatoire. Demain, j'espère assembler toutes les pièces, puis les seuls autres gros travaux seront de monter les plaques du servo et de la mèche de safran, ce qui sera probablement fait mercredi. Puis un dernier ponçage et percez tous les trous pour les ferrures de pont. Enfin après cela, je peux envelopper le bateau dans son vinyle bleu métallisé. C'est une expérience mais je suis sûr que cela en vaudra la peine et si cela ne fonctionne pas, je peux toujours le peindre. Montage de l'aileron Hier, il s'agissait d'installer la boîte d'ailerons. L'alignement de l'aileron exactement dans la bonne position avec les mesures de conception et sa verticalité est le travail le plus critique sur le bateau. Si vous vous trompez, le bateau sera difficile à équilibrer et peut naviguer plus haut sur un bord que sur l'autre. Le bateau dans mon gabarit est configuré pour être de niveau sur sa ligne de flottaison, c'est-à-dire qu'il y a une ligne horizontale reliant le bas de la proue et le bas de la poupe. Le bord d'attaque de l'aileron est perpendiculaire à cette ligne. Obtenez le bon gabarit et tout est facile. Sur le plan il y a deux mesures, une de la coque au bord d'attaque de l'aileron et ensuite une de la pointe de l'étrave au bas de l'aileron où elle pénètre dans le bulbe. Réglez ces mesures et le bord d'attaque de l'aileron doit être perpendiculaire à la ligne de flottaison du bateau. J'avais moins d'un diplôme. Voir image 24-27. Pour que l'aileron soit exactement vertical depuis la poupe, je nivelle le bateau au niveau du hauban et j'utilise un niveau sur l'aileron pour le rendre vertical, puis j'utilise du ruban adhésif pour le fixer. La gravité aide dans l'image 27. La corde sur la photo est utilisée pour mesurer de l'arc à la nageoire mais j'ai dû faire des trous dans le gabarit. Demain, je peux monter les dernières pièces du pont et de la cloison. Finir le collage Hier, c'était le jour du collage. Ajusté le pont avant, la cloison pré-percée, le support de pot radio et le poste d'écoute de grand-voile. Une seule petite erreur. J'ai oublié de sceller et de renforcer le haut de la boîte d'aileron J'ai le travail le plus fastidieux à faire aujourd'hui, ainsi que l'ajustement final du support de servo et du support de gouvernail. Les travaux de nidification consistent à pré-percer tous les trous de montage, à appliquer un enduit là où cela est nécessaire et à poncer finallement pour être prêt à appliquer le film. Lors du montage du poteau d'écoute de grand-voile, j'ai mesuré avec précision une ligne médiane au niveau du pont, puis j'ai fait de même avec une ficelle à 6 pouces du pont. Ensuite, à l'aide d'une équerre, j'ai pu redresser le poteau d'écoute de grand-voile et l'aligner avec le boîtier d'aileron, l'étai arrière, les œillets d'écoute de foc et les points d'attache du foc qui sont tous marqués. Les doigts croisés, les voiles seront mises de la même manière sur les deux bords. Le poids de la coque jusqu'à présent est de 420 g. Poids de l'ancienne coque à ce stade 620gms. Peut-être que 350 g est réalisable avec une couche légèrement plus fine. J'ai été généreux avec l'époxy à la base de l'aileron mais c'est là que se trouvent les correcteurs de toute façon. Estimez qu'environ 400 g de correcteurs seront nécessaires. Faire le ménage Le dernier renfort est entré hier. Pas grand chose à montrer car le bateau ressemble à celui de la veille, mais avec l'ajout d'une mèche de gouvernail et de supports de servo. Donner à la coque une bonne coupe pour rechercher les aspérités, puis l'enveloppe bleu métallique Peu de travaux restants à faire après l'emballage comme l'ajustement final de l'aileron et l'ajout de l'électronique et des accessoires. Fini la construction Les derniers travaux étant terminés vendredi, la coque est prête à être emballée. J'ai passé aujourd'hui à poncer et nettoyer la coque et le pont, ajustement final de l'aileron et du gouvernail qui s'est terminé exactement selon les plans de conception et sont tous deux alignés l'un avec l'autre. Demain sera le jour de la clôture. Commandé les nouvelles plates-formes PG de Potters Solutions et quelques morceaux de Sailsetc. Une fois le bateau emballé, je peux installer les nouveaux gréements en utilisant les accessoires existants en dehors des haubans. Ensuite, un peu de réglage interne et je suis prêt à me mettre à l'eau. Ce n'est pas un enveloppement L'enroulement a échoué. Il y a tellement de courbure dans la coque et le pont, il faut tellement étirer l'enveloppe avant l'application et il faut plusieurs paires de mains, c'est donc le retour à la pulvérisation de peinture. Le bateau est fini sans pulvérisation et, comme l'a dit M. Gibson, il vaut mieux utiliser de la peinture car le vinyle endommagé est impossible à réparer. Il devrait savoir qu'il avait l'habitude d'envelopper 18 pieds entre autres choses. Pourquoi ne lui ai-je pas parlé en premier. Le rêve était là, l'expérience manquait. J'ai adoré la finition métallique mais ce n'est pas le cas. En avant et en haut et en partant pour regarder la course de 18 pieds autour du port de Sydney dans le JJ Giltinan. Sur l'ordinateur bien sûr Temps de décision sur la peinture Cela a été un long processus d'essayer de trier la peinture pour le bateau. Je pourrais utiliser mon polyuréthane 2 packs qui a fait ses preuves et dont je sais qu'il est durable et la bonne solution, mais je veux vaporiser pour garder les ponts élégants. Comme vous le savez, j'ai essayé d'utiliser du film vinyle mais les courbes du bateau se sont avérées trop. La recherche m'a amené à des bombes aérosols d'époxy, d'émail et d'autres finitions, mais je suis tombé sur une peinture industrielle à base d'acrylique dans une bombe aérosol. Il est conçu pour la réparation de revêtements industriels intérieurs ou extérieurs. C'est un risque que je connais mais j'ai préparé un échantillon cet après-midi et il a une belle couleur, est dur, flexible, d'excellentes propriétés UV et résistant aux rayures. La feuille de date est ici : http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/3165638.pdf Ainsi de suite demain et nous verrons comment la peinture se comporte. Les images ci-dessous montrent le nouveau look spray sur un échantillon et l'effet que j'essaie d'éviter lors de la peinture de 2 packs de polyuréthane. Je vous montrerai le résultat demain et je verrai ensuite comment il s'use quand nous naviguerons. Problèmes avec la batterie L'aménagement de la coque est complet avec la quille et le gouvernail parfaitement alignés. Lorsque je suis allé tester l'électronique, j'ai commencé à charger la batterie et j'ai immédiatement remarqué qu'elle gonflait. J'ai retiré la batterie à l'extérieur car il y a des histoires intéressantes sur les batteries qui explosent. Deux autres sur commande. Les progrès sont interrompus jusqu'à l'arrivée de nouveaux longerons et batteries PG la semaine prochaine. Attention, gardez un œil sur votre batterie Lipo/lifo si vous ne les avez pas chargées depuis un moment. S'ils montrent des signes d'expansion, sortez-les de la maison. À l'intérieur du pot radio J'ai lu un article de Darren Paulic publié sur Facebook RC Sailing Group et peut être trouvé ici. Navigation radiocommandée en eau salée. Dans l'article, Darren a parlé de l'importance de garder vos appareils électriques hors de l'eau et de les recouvrir de vaseline ou de graisse au silicone . Il a mis une couche de néoprène sur la base de sa batterie et de son récepteur pour les maintenir hors du fond du pot radio afin de les protéger de toute infiltration d'eau. J'ai pensé un peu plus loin pour une solution simple et soignée et j'ai découvert que vous pouvez utiliser du velcro autocollant qui colle comme vous savez quoi, même à Correx, pour garder la batterie et les composants servo séparés et hors du fond du pot. Vous pouvez également mettre un petit morceau à l'extrémité des fils du récepteur pour les maintenir à 90 degrés les uns par rapport aux autres pour une performance optimale du signal radio. N'oubliez pas de positionner la batterie sur l'axe du bateau. Images 38 et 39. Problèmes avec le treuil, ou était-ce une erreur de l'opérateur (Photo 40) Tout d'abord, un grand bravo à Bill Green (RMG UK) qui fournit un super service et répond si rapidement aux questions. Lorsque j'ai démonté et remonté mon équipement radio en le transférant sur le nouveau bateau, je ne pouvais pas comprendre pourquoi lorsque j'ai tourné mon émetteur sur le treuil déplacé sur un tour. Éteignez l'émetteur et il revient à sa position d'origine. Un appel à Bill devrait résoudre le problème. Il a dit à juste titre que je devais programmer les limites du treuil selon le manuel que je n'avais pas dôme auparavant et voir ce qui se passe. Je l'ai fait mais cela n'a pas résolu le problème. Duh, je me suis finalement souvenu. Sur un zoom d'entraînement d'Emsworth, leur homme Richard Ballas, un as de la radio, avait parlé de la configuration du mode de sécurité intégrée sur l'émetteur. Cela vous permet de régler le gouvernail et l'écoute sur le bateau afin qu'il tourne en rond plutôt que de naviguer au loin si le bateau perd le signal radio. J'avais installé cela il y a quelques semaines mais j'avais oublié ce que cela ferait. Chaque fois que j'éteignais l'émetteur, l'écoute était relâchée d'un tour et demi et le gouvernail tournait de 25 degrés. Allumez l'émetteur et l'écoute et le gouvernail reviennent à leur position d'origine. Problème résolu, il ne me reste plus qu'à affiner le réglage du treuil lorsqu'il est complètement gréé. Poids des courants jusqu'à présent : Coque nue peinte 460gms Raccords et RC 373g Gouvernail 32g Ampoule et aileron 2500gms Estimation du gréement 235 à 300g Estimez donc 365 à 400 g de correcteurs. Voici le bateau dans toute sa splendeur. Next Section Build the rigs

Craig Richards Tuning guide (Page 2) A Rig forestay tension: The A rig is the only suite where I change forestay tension. The rest have the forestay as tight as I can get it until I start worrying about breaking the boat or having the mast go out of column. You never want the forestay to pump or flog upwind, so for each increasing wind condition you go just a bit tighter so that you get a bit of sag, but no pumping. At the very top of A, the tighter the better and do not let it sag. The sag and a loose jib cunnigham seem to put a bit more fullness into the front of the jib and with very sensitive telltales you can see that the fuller the jib entry the longer the flow seems to stay attached to the leeward side of the jib. This is particularly helpful in very dirty air with lots of wind switches etc. The forestay length on my boat varies from 1138 to 1132mm from the lightest to strongest conditions. My go to setting when I am unsure turns out to be 1135 just as the rigging guide suggests. It will also depend on how much your backstay stretches, I use the below on my backstay: As Per Krabbe has kindly pointed out, dyneema lines are prone to shrinking. I have marks to quickly put the rigs into the boat (last minute change before heat etc), which I do check before each regatta, but over a few days the lines may still change length. I have a fairly good feeling now for what the rig should look like, but it's probably a good idea to check the lengths regularly. This is how I set up my main sheeting angle on the A rig: I put the palm of my hand against the aft quarter of the boat and when sighting from astern I have my fingers parallel to the backstay. With my hand in this position the main boom just touches my fingers. No measurments, no confusion and very easy to repeat. Yes it's wider than just about every tuning guide suggests, but at this point I am just setting up consistent sheeting angles of the main and jib (to follow in next post) With the main sheeting angle set, the jib is then trimmed such that the hole in back of the jib boom fitting is over the first knuckle on the deck. It's close to 60mm between the middle of the mast and the inner edge of the boom. In my case its also exactly the width of my three middle fingers. I posted some pictures Sue Brown took, but the posts seem to have disappeared. I seem to have put the link on my main profile and not this group ..lol. http://www.flickr.com/.../in/album-72177720308506905/... I do sail with the setting I posted. Here is my go fast mode: I run 20mm foot depths on the main and jib as a starting point. In this mode I want the boat to run with absolutely neutral helm. It can hunt the breeze slightly, but must never luff up and slow down. I never want to be pulling the bow down with the rudder. I may trim in and and push the bow up. This is absolutely the best VMG mode in the absence of other boats. You will go faster and end up higher than a boat that sails only in pinch mode. I use the bottom draft strip a lot. I want to see the maximum depth at 50% and a clean straight entry after the mast. If the fullness is further forward I flatten the foot of the mainsail further If the boat is running with a bit of weather helm as the breeze increases I will first flatten the main off to about 10mm and if that does not work I will change the trim to let the main out slightly further, but leave the jib the same. I will also flatten the jib down to 10mm at the very top end of A, but only after the main is already down to 10mm. The neutral helm also has the advantage that when I am unsighted and cant see the boat it is still sailing flat out without my input. This is also a big advantage when the boat is too far away to see clearly. That lower tell tale on the main is a great trim indicator. It should fly at a slight up angle on the weather side of about 20 degrees. In this photo it says I am sailing a fraction lower than optimum and I should push the boat up with the rudder. The neutral helm has one further huge advantage. As I tack, once I am on the new heading I seldom need to keep on some weather helm until the boat gets its speed up again and starts tracking. The boat also tacks much more cleanly as a result and I stall less when I make a mistake. I.e. its much easier to get the boat going again from a bad tack. And a great picture of John. He sheets the main in a bit more than I do, but the jib is still quite wide. This is probably his pinch mode though and if he dropped the main slightly so the jib is over the deck knuckle we would be quite close in setup. One difference is that the entry angle on the main on Johns boat at the first draft stripe is a bit wider than mine, so he would need to sheet a bit closer. My entry looks a lot flatter, so I can sheet the boom out a bit and still have a similar entry angle. This could be because I have a bit more mast bend coupled with less luff curve. I actively set my mast bend so that the luff at this height moves behind the mast. I.e. the luff sits on the centre line, not to leeward of the mast. Notice how flat he now runs his main foot depth. I was running 20mm, but John looks to be even flatter. It's also a great picture for showing the twist in the sails and a perfect example of how the twist in the jib parallels the back of the main. Active trim: My high mode has the jib width at 45-50mm, about 1cm - 1,5cm in from my best VMG mode. I have the ratchet set for the mainsail trim on my radio. I Move the trim/throttle stick on the radio so that it is two ratchet clicks up. This is the radio setting that I want to see my VMG sail setting at. I use the subtrim buttons on my radio to move the sails to that setting. With the trim all the way in I now want the jib to be at 50mm or perhaps even 45mm in very flat water. Depending on the radio, two clicks may move the trim in more than the desired 1-1.5cm so you would need to change your throttle curve. The radio I used at Fleetwood did not need it, but my newer radio moves the sheet too far and I have set a throttle curve. If there are boats around me and I need height, I will start with the boat at two clicks out and then once it up at full speed, I start to bleed the boat up as I trim in. Often you can carry a high fast mode for a length of time, but if I hit a bad wave or header and the boat slows then its immediately trim to the two clicks position, get the speed back and then work the boat up again one or two clicks. If I am in clear air and chasing then I found the boat very fast at two clicks out and did not trim in much The higher trim mode is also very useful if you get THAT boat below you that is racing only you and the fleet disappears into the distance whilst they try and luff the heck out of you. Your race is still toast, but at least it does give you some time to find a gap to tack away in. If you do have some space to leeward, then even with the wider trim you may be pleasantly surprised to see that you don't lose height and will roll over them quite quickly. I'll try and do a bit on twist, but here is a hint that I do not have enough twist in the top of my jib. Camber stripes are your friend. The bottom windward telltale is running at the angle I like, but the top one suggests I have mucked up the trim. It should match the bottom as closely as possible. Mains twist. Finicky beast. Half a turn on the vang can make a surprising difference. I can only suggest a starting point and then fiddle with small changes until the boat looks and behaves to your preferences. Looking at the boat from behind when the boat is on the water and using the picture of John's boat as a template would be a good start. Looking down the backstay from behind the boat, I want the main leech to parallel the backstay between the top two battens. It was difficult to take a photo, but fairly obvious in real life Jib Twist. I like the jib leech to parallel the back of the main for as far as possible. The upper third of the jib should also parallel the main entry angle as far as possible. Top of jib and upper third of main should start to luff at the same time as you head up into the wind. Earlier I posted a near perfect picture of John Tushingham and now I hope he forgives me for posting one a bit more ugly This was taken a month before the Globals and I think I had an edge on boat speed in this race. I never saw his boat look like this in the Globals and want to use this to point out how top sailors like him are prepared to adapt and experiment. In this photo we have similar rake, but I am running a more bent mast, with flatter sails. A much finer entry for the main as a result, which should result in a cleaner and wider slot between the back of the main and the jib. The difference in speed was very small, but even a cm or two of extra speed helps get your nose out in a crowded start and makes you look like a better sailor. Compare this to his globals setup B-Rig Quick reminder that these are my settings and opinions and are not the only way to do things. I was not very fond of the B-rig, but took the opportunity to go out and sail whenever there was enough wind in the evenings. After a few sessions of just buggering around with silly settings I started to really enjoy these sessions as the B-rig has such brilliant contrast between just sailing and sailing fast and once you found the faster settings the boat itself became increasingly easier to sail. I went into the first B-rig race at the Globals not knowing if I had got it right as I have had nobody to sail against. In short it was a very pleasant surprise and I had speed to burn. As the regatta wore on I made a few mistakes (getting off the lee shore etc) and started to second guess myself and changed the setting to trim a bit narrower, which was a mistake in retrospect, but I was not too stessed as I could still hang in for a top 3 in most races. The fastest boat was probably sail number 121. A bit inconsistent, but when he got it right had a definite edge towards the end of the regatta. There could be some advantage to the icarex sail material in these conditions, but if anything this boat was sheeting the jib wider than I do when it was flying. If you set the B-rig up anything like the A, the first thing you will most likely notice is lee helm and the first attempt to fix this would be to pull the main up to the centreline. It does balance the boat, but the groove becomes very narrow and it's hard to keep the boat going fast and tacking can become a bit harder. What worked for me was. As much aft rake as possible to take out some of the lee helm. I wanted the flattest entry angle possible with the maximum camber back at 50% in the lower third. So I bent the mast to take out all the luff curve. All 5mm of it. The tightest forestay possible, just short of breaking the boat. It makes the boat easier to tack and also takes shape out of the jib keeping the entry flatter. I wanted the widest main I could get away with and to keep things consistent I start with the main boom against the palm of my hand when my fingers are parallel to the backstay as normal. Most of the other boats do sheet a bit closer. Good, I feel I am faster. With the main boom in this position the jib boom is now over the side of the boat. 65-70mm between the mast and jib boom. I do have a 'point' mode where the jib may come in to 55-60mm, which could be used off the start line, but once clear I am sheeting out again. The jib is flat, 10mm-15 mm foot depth. The jib twist is still parallel to the back of the main, but you can twist it off a bit more at the very top of B rig conditions. The main is flat. I run 15mm, but JohnT is even flatter at 10mm or less. There is a fair amount of twist in the main, which you can get away with as with the luff curve taken out by the bent mast the slot is already very wide. The more twist you have, the faster the boat, but the limit is when the top third starts to backwind. I start with the main twist setting as follows. With the main at the VMG setting, sighting up the backstay a line drawn through the bottom two mainsail battens is parallel to the backstay. Run out of time. Will add a bit more later In the meanwhile here is a nice picture of John, over the start line , but a nice example of a fast setup B rig Sheeting Angle: More detail to follow, but its wider than you think. Three fingers will no longer do the trick. B rig: Backstay and mast: Bend that baby. Luff curve matches back of mast the entire length. Standard or 'stock' luff curve. Flat sails. Jib down at less than 15mm foot depth. I run 15mm on the main. JohnT was flatter. B-rig: More mast curve: B-Rig Main twist: Phone camera perspective mucks thing up, but a line through the ends of the bottom two battens is parallel to the backstay B-rig: Mast Curve

Avant un événement Déterminez quel est votre objectif en voile Connaître ton règles et tactiques de course Gérez votre investissement avec prudence entretien de bateaux Naviguez vite avec le droit réglage et configuration du bateau Connaître vos radiocommandes Efficace pratique du bateau Assurez une configuration cohérente en utilisant listes de contrôle Savoir comment le la météo t'aidera Utile les références

The finished product Le résultat final

Working up the Alioth. Boat 1 This journey with the Alioth is not about 3d printing but about working up a boat to make it competitive. My objective with the Alioth project was to work the boat up in stages and see how speed developed. There was no speed edge to start with in fact the opposite was true to start with as there were some deficiencies in the set up, but confidence is building as I optimise the boat and I see it get faster. First a caveat on the story below. If I was to do the same again, I would have bought the fins from Juan and fitted them as standard. This would give me a balanced boat. I saw the new fins fitted on a new Alioth at the end of 2024 and I have to say I was totally impressed. Save yourself a lot of trouble and go with Juan for the full boat and foil package. You won't regret it. The kit on the boat Alioth hull in Polymer PLA assembled by Paul Barton. The hull is so strong you can give it a good punch with a fist. Alioth standard fins (these were early generation fins) Winch is RMG fast 290 H1 with 45mm spiral drum Spars are PG 11mm Roller bearing gooseneck on A rig Coreless 20g Digital Metal Gear Dual Bearing Mini Rudder Servo - DFMGD1 BG Sails The Journey Now the boat is close to full race mode. It has been an interesting journey to race a vanilla standard boat, no finishing on the hull just a clear coat or 2 and no sanding. All the rigs were set with the boom band at 150mm from the step which made for a rather ugly look with the booms high and pointing up in the air slightly. The look wasn't improved on the A rig with a prebend in the mast that was more like a kink than a smooth bend and made the boat very hard to set up and sail. It did not have an edge as you can imagine. After the Hampton Court charity day, I trashed the A rig and converted it to a B rig. Then I carefully prebent a new A mast and set it up with 62mm spreaders. The result was an impressive looking BG mainsail which could be set twisty and deep for a chop or flat for a breeze on flat water. There were no hard spots causing any creases in the luff as the mast bend matched the luff curve. The challenge with prebending devices is that you can get an immediate bend at the 600mm point. The bend needs to be progressive and other than bending by hand I know of no device that can achieve this. If anyone knows a way, please advise me how it is done. The A rig mast bend matches the luff curve with no hard spots. This is the limit of bend before the sail breaks down. This Mainsail was first use in 2020 and used for practice over the last year. Pretty impressive duration and still looks superb. All three rigs had 15mm taken off the bottom of the mast to bring the boom band to the deck. It is still 70mm or so from the measuring point on the deck. I needed to shortened the gooseneck housing to lift the kicker adjuster off the deck so I could get my fingers in to adjust. Here you can just see the rake of the fin and mast and how the boom band sits just above the deck. FIngers crossed it will be perfectly balanced The jib attachment point was lowered so the jib boom is as close to the deck as possible. There has been quite a bit of discussion about end plate effects which I do not buy into because as soon the boat heels or gets into chop, the wind is blocked and disturbed by the hull turbulence. However with the jib boom low and the main boom low and parallel to the deck, the centre of effort of the sails is as low as possible. The look is good and a good looking boat is often fast. Time will tell. You cannot achieve a main boom parallel to the deck on the standard Alioth settings. The mast is too upright and if you try raking the mast you just create weather helm. To achieve the mast rake the fin has to be raked back approximately 2 degrees. Using a standard Alioth fin I shaved 2 degrees off the aft edge of the fin where it enters the fin box and added a front edge fillet using Isopon car filler making for a nice secure fit. The 2 degrees was measured with a protractor acquired in my university days. Remember to adjust the bulb angle, 2 degrees up from back to front should do it. Of course if you rake the fin 2 degrees, you move the bulb back 8mm relative to the hull which will effect the position of the correctors. When I first launched with this configuration, I removed the correctors to see how the boat would sit and was delighted to see it sat on its marks, so I added the 70gm of correctors back on the aft side of the fin box, considerably forward of their original position. The final job was to finish the hull. I had two choices. Either sand the 2 pack clear coat on the hull which was recommended by my builder, 3D printed RC Yachts, who is a licensed builder or go the whole hog and take off the clear coat and thin the hull to reduce weight and paint again. I chose the former as it was a lot quicker. The hull finish is superb with just a hint of evidence of the the two hull joins. I filled any groves with Isopon car filler. To sand the hull I started with specialist finishing paper. It has a lubricant coating which prevents clogging and saves a lot of time over wet and dry sanding. The main advantage is you can easily see the high and low spots. I used 320 grade specialist finishing paper and then polished with 1500 grade wet and dry and T cut car polish. The other minor job was to add an additional fairlead for the jib sheet. The boat only came with two fairleads so I reposition one for the B rig and added the 3rd for the C rig. Each jib boom now goes out 85 degrees on the run. I had to drill a new set of holes forward on the jib boom for the A rig. The boat is now in a position for me to check the balance which I am hoping to do tomorrow if I can find an ice free lake. What is left to do Consider the right fin, rudder and bulb shape. My early generations Alioth blades have a reverse camber at the aft end of the chord. I believe the new clades are good. The bulb has the max chord 25% from the front. There are a few choices for the rudder, e.g. John Gill (UK) who makes a nice product as well as a rig tension meter, Robot,Yachts (UK), Dave Creed (UK), Craig Smith (Australia). Need to do some two boat testing before making any decisions on this front. Once I have checked the balance and got the boat footing nicely and we get near some meaningful regattas , I will bend on some new sails as the final stage of optimisation. Of course all this work is combined with as much practise as I can fit in. It is the nut on the end of the tiller that gets the boat round the race course and all the speed in the world won't make up for bad starts and poor tactics. The sheeting set up - Feeding the main and jib sheet through the small guide hole in the upper left of the radio pot holds any loose sheets away from the winch and drum. Here you can see the 3 sheet lead positions. The numbers on the deck were hand drawn and cut. If I was to build another Alioth what would I do In constructing the hull, remove as much redundant plastic as possible and sand the hull well to reduce weight as much as possible before painting. The printed hull is approx 1mm thick. There are two options for sheeting systems. On deck sheeting where the sheets enter the deck behind the foredeck bulkhead. This will keep the boat dry. The other method is under deck sheeting with the deck entry points on the centreline of the boat. They let a tiny amount of water in although nothing significant even in wild weather. The boat does need rinsing inside after salt water sailing. Personally I like the latter set up. Other than that I would do the same as above.

Tuning tips from one of the worlds greatest sailors, Ken Read at the Newport Model Boat Club Dragonflite 95 Spring Clinic 2024 `(Good to see he has studied the tuning tips from our 2023 Global Champion, Craig Richard s) VIDEO Synopsis For a simple one design boat, who would have thought there was so much to think about. Measure the rake multiple times a week. Rig and setup the boat at home away from any wind to make sure balance is right A rig average rake 1135. Set the backstay before measuring the rake Use a rig stick Set the mast right back at deck level. Keep the backstay the same and tighten the jib luff bowsie slightly as wind builds. Moves rake from 1135 to 1132. Only 3mm. In light weather ease backstay 2-3mm Mainsheet bridle - glue in place so ring is level with boom eye. Makes sure it is centred Jib sheet eye on boom is well forward of deck sheet eye. Main boom out just under 90. Jib boom at 90 degrees. On a windy day sheet in slightly Main halyard. Use a single line so it can swivel and set just below silver band so the sail can pivot Use cord instead of the metal sail ties Making changes. Do down wind and behind yourself. Static loads are so much higher on shore than on the water. Learn where the max bend is on the backstay and mark as a reference. When on the water if you have heavy weather or lee helm you have not got the original set up right. If you change the rake you have to change the topping lift. 2marks on topping lift, 2 marks on headstay and 1 mark on the backstay. With these marks setup is quick and easy. Jib tack. Get as close to the deck as possible Jib cunningham - never used because the sails are board flat. Deck measurements 3 marks on the deck for sheet locations. The marks run down the boom. Make a mark with the boom and then draw 3 1 inch lines on starboard side with a ruler in line with mark to jib tack. Set up consistently to those marks. Use for course tune to get rid of weather or lee helm and a repeat reference if boat is fast. Foot measurement. Use fingers. 1 to 1.5 fingers. Measure and check with your fingers Check vang sailing downwind on the water. Taping a hatch. Start at the back and work forward so you create a water ramp. It is possible to roll gybe the boat. Jib weight pushed right in to avoid getting hooked up in a crash. Tacking in a breeze, you have to let the sheets out. High mode fast mode - Ken just uses the throttle

DF 95 Tuning numbers If you search on the web for DF 95 tuning you can get similar images to the one below. I use it as a guide (ignoring the mast gate positions) to establish some starting points and then adjust as I feel fit. As I get comfortable with my setting I will mark up the cords so I can achieve similar setting on each outing. But the best way to set up is to copy Craig or find the fastest boat on the day and set up similar to that. How do I set the boat up Having raced twice now at a TT and the first day of the Nationals at Poole with top 2 results, I can conclude my light weather set up is OK. The following pages show how Craig sets his boat up and there are many useful tips there. However whilst I have copied quite a bit from his work the are some things I do a little different. I use the table above for foot depth and boom angle. So I start with the mast 2 notches forward from the back. I do this because my luff curve on the main is not shaved like Craigs so I need a bit more mast bend. This sets the mast rake so there is no need to measure bow bumper to the crane. With the jib luff slackish, I adjust the backstay to put in about 5 mm of bend so the mainsail sits nicely agains the mast. Then I apply enough forestay tension to keep the top of the jib is stable in the strongest gust of the day. This will stop the top of the jib wobbling which we all know is dead slow. Then I check my boom angles and foot depth from the chart and make sure the rudder is straight. The last thing I do is holding the boat, sheet everything in to make sure the setup looks OK and then gradually head the boat up into wind to check the jib tell tale and the tell tail I have at the top of the main react in unison. Then I know the boat should be balanced. I put the boat on the water to see how it sails upwind. If I have lee helm, I apply a tiny bit of kicker until the balance is relatively neutral and the reverse if there is weather helm. That is pretty much all there is to the set up. It is very easy to over complicate. Far better to go with your setup and focus on the sailing. These are one design boats and there is much to be gained by sailing smart. How do I sail the DF In summary, I think lower and faster upwind is my mantra usually with the sheets eased a notch or two to get better VMG. I do have a high mode for getting off the start line and sailing in the stronger gusts but rarely use it. Starting In a one design boat I have become more aggressive on the start line. In the past I have hung back but find you lose too much distance if the line is biased like it was at Poole. So on a very port biased line I want to be the pin end boat but this does require a level of skill and timing. If the line is squarer and there is no advantage to go left I want to be one of the starboard end boats so I have positional control on the fleet and always look to find a gap on the start so I can tack when I like. On the first beat I will try and stay to the right of the fleet so I do not get forced left by starboard boats and have to take pot luck coming into the mark on port. Of course if there is a favourable left side shift or more pressure I will head that way. On the reach or run in lighter conditions I find the boat does like heading up in the lulls and bearing away in the puffs as this maintains a better overall speed. I have used the technique in dinghies, yachts and model yachts. It all comes down to manipulating apparent wind. There is a lot more on tactical sailing round the course in the section "Racing and IOM". This winter I will rearrange the site so it covers IOM, DF and Marblehead and have racing as a separate section. Overall message is keep everything simple and focus on sailing fast when your boat is on the water.

A directory of associations, boat builders, sail makers, fitting suppliers, building, tuning and racing tip sites. The Starting Point and references My plan for the boat was to sort the rigging and sails so that I have a reliable package which I can put on the water and race with confidence. The boat was only sailed a few times times by the previous 2 owners since 2016 so there is a lot of work to do. Here is a starting jobs list. Fair top of rudder so it fits flush to the hull. Fit Futaba Servo and new 1000mA Lifo battery Check all the electrics are working smoothly and calibrate winch Replace endless sheet cord and adjust lead approach to drum so there is a direct line with no friction Replace all sheets Replace backstay and jib leech topping lift with wire. Check weigh boat Calibrate sheeting angles Check all mainsail heads are set to just below top band. One or two of the fittings may need replacing as they look a bit dodgy Tune all rigs and calibrate and log settings Test sail and check boat is waterproof Buy more deck patches. The jobs were straight forward and I had loads of spares so no additional cost. If the hull is competitive which I believe it should be then I think an order for new sails will be on the cards as well as a lightweight swing rig and maybe a gismo to control leech tension upwind. For now I will work with what I have and assess whether the investment will be worth while. Looking around on the web I found the following references Marblehead section on the MYA Web site. This provides links to all the relevant Marblehead web sites Pimp my Marblehead by BG on the MYA web site Great information on how to pimp up older designs. More from the man himself on pimping. Here is the web link but have put extracts of the text below because it adds to the jigsaw. Its well worth reading the full article HERE Originally Posted by Brad Gibson on RC Groups.com Weight - Anything with a designed displacement upwards of 5 kg ready to race will struggle in light winds. The current competitive parameters for an all round design live between 4.4 - 4.8 kg with the most recent winning designs sitting in the 4.7- 4.8 range. - Any hull weight with radio and rudder installed ready to sail, less rig and fin/ballast, should not be more that 900 - 950 grams. The better boats live within the 780 - 840g region. - Beam Waterline should be no greater than 160mm. Current designs are as low as 130 -150mm Hull weight is 840 grams, less rig and keel. Overall designed displacement is 4.9kg. - With a newer thin profile stiff fin we go a fraction deeper on the fin and shave 100 grams off the lead. Lighter boat, similar righting moment with less drag. Win win! - The original Bantock rigs are stiff as hell for their weight so very little to do there other than modernise the sail plans to modern ratios if you desire, and replace sails accordingly. The original rigs were set some 85mm off the deck to the lower mast bands, so we follow what works on our IOM's and modern M's in cutting down the goosenecks to get things as low as we can. These last points are more fine tuning but give us a little more from the boat across the wind range. Sailsetc/Bantock swing rig plan How to program an RMG Smartwinch

A checklist of everything to do before and event Some notes on measuring your settings I put this section in, because as a newcomer I was confused over how to measure some of the settings. e.g. was the jib foot measurement from the foot of the jib to the side of the boom or the centre of it. So just for clarity I show the measurements for a Britpop. All measurement are from the BG web site. Different designs will have there own measurements to achieve perfect sailing balance. To emphasise the importance of this, take a lesson from Zvonko Jelacic who won the 2023 Europeans. Every morning he would be seen with his boat fully rigged laid horizontally on a table and measuring all his rig settings before he went sailing. To get the mast rake accurate I use a a measuring stick. There are two measurements, one from the deck to a measured point on the mast. A second from the bow (at the back of the bumper to the aforementioned measured point. The marks on the rig stick are the same for the Alternative plan. See pictures below Measuring main/jib foot depth, jib boom angle and leach twist, mast ram, main boom angle Jib foot and the mainsail foot are measured from deepest part of sail to the side of the boom. Jib leech twist is measured from the topping lift wire. Jib boom angle is measured from the centre of the mast to the inside of the boom. Golden rule is the A rig should be just inside the shroud, B rig centred on the shroud and C rig pointing outside the shroud. Mast ram is measured from the 1st sheet loop. Measure the main boom angle from the centre of the post to the side of the boom ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS, start with the base measurements recommended for your design. Only with experience and talking to the experts will you learn how to fine tune from there for the wide and varied conditions we experience. A couple of mm adjustment here and there can make a huge difference to performance. Lastly and there is probably some debate on this in some circles, measure your rig tension. I bought a rig tension device recently and was amazed to see the impact of one turn of a bottle screw on the rig tension. Of course once you have it right, put locking nuts on the thread into the bottle screws and you will achieve the same tension when you rig the boat. It is only worth checking again from time to time in case the wires stretch or the boat appears to slow. They are available from johngill1003@gmail.com . I thoroughly recommend these to you and no, I am not on commission.

How I chose a design and built my IOM Building an IOM. (Click on a heading) Introduction and cost Acquire the plan Build the plug First Alternative Build The Optimised Alternative build Build the rigs Add the sails Weigh and check measure The end result

Here is what you get in the Alternative plan Acquérir le plan Après avoir examiné tous les différents designs, j'ai conclu que tout ce qui était proche d'un Britpop devait être la meilleure option étant donné mon manque total de connaissances. J'ai donc acheté le design alternatif sur le site Web de BG et cela m'a donné tout J'avais besoin de construire le bateau avec le bon gréement mettre en place des mesures. Qu'est-ce que vous obtenez dans les plans Notes de conception Disposition du pont Plan de pont avec positions d'équipement Élévation latérale avec toutes les mesures à partir de la référence arrière Cadres de coque Cadres de pont avant Modèles d'ouverture de coque Disposition du gréement du mât Disposition de la flèche Disposition de la flèche principale Une pièce supplémentaire sur le site Web de BG est les paramètres de râteau pour l'alternative Une fois que j'ai eu tous les plans, j'étais confiant d'avoir toutes les informations nécessaires pour construire le bateau.

A directory of championship races from around the world Des vidéos du monde entier 2021 Région 5 Régate de l'OIM Corpus Christi Texas 27 février - 1er mars 2020. Championnats du monde 2019 Brésil Chaleur 6 Flotte A Chaleur 6 Flotte E Chaleur 6 Flotte B Chaleur 8 Flotte A Chaleur 8 Flotte B Chaleur 9 Flotte A Chaleur 9 Flotte B Chaleur 14 Flotte A Chaleur 17 Flotte A Heat 19 Flotte A Heat 19 Flotte B Chaleur 20 Flotte B Chaleur 22 Flotte D Chaleur 23 Flotte B Chaleur 24 Flotte A Championnats nationaux d'Australie 2019 Jour 1 2e course de classement Course 4 Une Flotte Course 2 Une Flotte Course 10 Une Flotte Course 5 Une Flotte Flotte de la Course 5 B Flotte de la Course 3 B Course 13 Une Flotte Régate Australie Sunshine Coast 2018 Jour 4 Course 1 Manche 2 Jour 4 Course 1 Manche 1 Flotte de la Course 4 B Course d'ensemencement 1 Course d'ensemencement 2 Flotte Course 2 B Jour 1 Course 3 D Flotte Champs d'État du Queensland Course 2 Une Flotte Flotte Course 2 B Course 15 A Flotte Course 18 A Flotte 2017 ouvert OIM Masters Hollande COUPE LEIPZIG 2017 Ressortissants australiens de l'OIM 2017 Kogarah Bay I OM Worlds 2015 Foster City Dernier jour Championnats du Royaume-Uni 2012 au 2 Island RYC Jour 1 Course 1 Une Flotte Championnats du monde 2011 West Kirby Course 18 A Flotte Course 23 A Fleet - Brillant match race entre Peter Stollery 39 et Brad Gibson 42 Jour 1 Jour 2 Jour 3 Jour 4 Jour 5 Jour 6 Un peu de nostalgie