Search Results

Autres fournisseurs Royaume-Uni Fibre de verre de la côte est Balances de précision Dremel - essentiel pour la construction de maisons en fibre de verre Lanières de cèdre Compagnie de bande de cèdre Maquettes de bateaux de Cornouailles Compte à rebours Anémomètre à vent nous Commencez ici à l'American Model Yacht Association

The Marblehead Project Here is the story of my entry into the world of Marbleheads.

1ère étape au vent Que souhaitez-vous savoir Exécutez votre plan A quoi faut-il faire attention Planifier le contournement de la marque bien avant l'approche Quels appels pouvez-vous passer Le détail Exécutez votre plan. Eh bien, cela suppose que vous en avez un. Alors, qu'envisagez-vous d'aller dans votre plan? Nous en avons parlé dans la section "Naviguer avant le départ" ICI Essayez d'avoir une vue du parcours sous différents angles et testez vos observations lorsque vous naviguez sur votre bateau avant le départ et observez les autres bateaux. Découvrez quel côté du bord au vent est favorable, soit par l'observation du rivage, soit à la sortie de la voile. Le vent semble-t-il plus fort d'un côté ou de l'autre. Y a-t-il des obstacles (arbres, bâtiments, gros bateaux), qui peuvent affecter le vent sur le parcours. Comment les rafales descendent-elles le parcours, favorisent-elles un côté ou l'autre, le vent tourne-t-il de manière significative en eux et quel bord est favorable pour entrer dans la rafale. Y a-t-il une ligne de rivage importante qui peut faire fléchir le vent. Si vous le pouvez, travaillez avec un autre bateau pour tester le vent en remontant les côtés opposés du rythme. Quelle que soit la manière dont vous le faites, établissez un plan et suivez-le jusqu'à ce que les conditions changent et que les preuves suggèrent fortement un plan d'action différent. Restez au milieu du parcours à moins qu'il n'y ait une raison évidente d'être ailleurs et regardez les habitants pour voir où ils vont. Tu buts sur le premier temps Éviter les foules et se faire enfermer Bénéficiez de toutes les courbes de vent Continuez à chercher le cours pour les quarts de travail Éviter les zones de vent causées par des obstructions Minimiser les virements de bord Lorsque vous essayez d'atteindre le côté favorisé du parcours, sacrifiez 1 ou 2 bateaux en vous esquivant plutôt que de virer de bord et de vous faire éventuellement entraîner du mauvais côté du parcours. Planifiez bien à l'avance pour l'approche de la marque au vent. Si vous êtes près de l'avant, vous avez une certaine flexibilité dans votre approche et peut-être que vous pouvez exécuter une approche bâbord amure de dernière minute si cela est favorisé, cependant si vous êtes dans une foule alors assurez-vous de vous aligner sur tribord tôt, au moins en dehors de la zone des 4 bateaux pour que vous puissiez naviguer dans l'air clair avec de la vitesse. Assurez-vous de savoir de quel côté de la course vous voulez et positionnez votre bateau en conséquence. Faire des salutations sur le parcours À ce stade, il convient de mentionner quelques-uns des appels que vous êtes autorisé à faire au départ et à faire le tour du parcours. Les règles indiquent certains appels autorisés répertoriés ci-dessous Par un concurrent "24 place pour virer" à un obstacle ou pour un bateau prioritaire - réponse facultative vous virez Appel à protestation - 24 protestations 15 Bateau 33 hors de contrôle (et devient donc un obstacle) Grêle tactique Tribord Rester debout Pas de place - pour virer à l'intérieur à la marque au vent Chevauchement Pas de chevauchement Marquer la chambre Par le Comité Rappel individuel Rappel général Rappel du code U Rappel du drapeau noir Grêle par l'observateur par exemple 59 a frappé la marque. Contact entre 45 et 67 ans Tout le reste est juste déroutant. Il est vain d'entrer dans un argument lorsque tous vos concurrents et spectateurs écoutent. Ils ne vous en remercieront pas. Exemple de vidéo d'appels déroutants

Quelques livres que vous aimeriez lire Théorie Théorie et pratique de la voile par CA Marchaj 1964 Aéro-hydrodynamique de la voile par CA Marchaj 1979 Performance de voile par CA Marchaj 1996 Voile de haute performance par Frank Bethwaite 2010 (2e édition) S'entraîner Expert en dériveur par Paul Elvstrom 1963 Vent et stratégie par Stuart Walker 1973 Championnat de voile en dériveur par Christopher Caswell et David Ullman 1978 Regarder les voiles par Bruce Banks / Dick Kenny 1979 Gagnant - La psychologie de la concurrence par Stuart Walker 1980 Tactiques de course avancées par Stuart Walker 1981 Naviguez, faites la course et gagnez par Eric Twiname 1982 Ceci est Boat Tuning for Speed par Fred Imhoff / Lex Pranger 1984 Naviguer pour gagner - Dinghy Helming par Lawrie Smith 1983 - Stratégie éolienne par David Houghton 1984 - Réglage de votre dériveur par Lawrie Smith 1985 - Boatspeed par Rodney Pattisson / Tim Davison 1986 Manuel d'entraînement de course RYA par Jim Saltonstall 1983 Mes remerciements à Brian Outram (Australie) pour sa liste de lecture Faites-moi savoir vos livres préférés afin que je puisse les ajouter à la liste

The DF 95 Project Here is the story of my entry into the world of DF 95. I launch a new boat on 14/6/23 and sailed in my first TT event the following Sunday. With the Tips from Richard Calas at Emsworth and Craig Richards from his facebook posts I was able to be competitive from the start. There is no point reinventing the wheel so rather than post ideas on setup, I start with Craig's wonderful series of articles on facebook on how to set your boat up and then I will add my own observations. The DF95 is a great one design boat and I have no regrets moving into the class. It is a delight to sail and the only way you will get more speed than someone else is by achieving a better setup or sailing better. What more can you want. Starting with the build I was given some helpful advice: It is worth applying Epoxy all deck eyes. Unscrew, apply a tiny amount of epoxy and re-screw to seal all the deck fittings. Use epoxy when assembling the booms to give time to align the components. I upgraded to the newer brushless rudder servo as I thought the upgrade would be more reliable when centering the rudder. A lesson I learned on the IOM I bought 3 1000mAh life batteries from rc yachts as they were the cheapest supplier I chopped the top of the on/off switch as when I turned to port the electrics neatly switched off as the servo arm hit the on off switch. I bent the wire connector between the rudder servo and the tiller ever so slightly, so it did not catch on the deck hatch housing as this was straining the servo. I counter sunk the servo tray screws so the hatch sat neatly in its housing I threaded cord through the bung and added a restrainer to stop it coming out. This way I could empty the boat without ever losing the bung. I drilled a second hole on the A rig can for the mainsail fastening, 5 mm aft of the supplied hole Left the top sail tie loose on the A rig so sail flops nicely from side to side. I used fine cord to tie the sails to the mast. Every knot is secured with super glue. The assembly instructions are spot on although they only cover the A rig and could add a few comments about the B_D rigs.. Whilst the specs on the DF web site were good for the mast and boom. it took me a while to figure where do you attach the jib tacks and jib sheet eyes. Put a bigger knot on the topping lift inside boom. Be very careful with the jib wire terminals on the jibs. I have already had one ferrule that slipped. On my IOM, I terminate the wire by bending the wire using a Dupro tool. Might do that in the long term on the DF. These are all simple tasks which I hope will improve the longevity of the boat or make it more efficient. With no boat speed advantage to be had it is all about the sailing, much of which I cover in racing an IOM. Whilst the tuning details are specific to the IOM, the rest applies to any class. Maybe the heading should be Racing a radio controlled yacht. Enjoy.

Constructeurs de bateaux Base de données de l'OIM et d'autres modèles de yachts Yachts imprimés en 3D Comment concevoir et imprimer en 3D des yachts rigides légers pour faire de la course CONCEPT ZWERKZ Yacht de course et accessoires radiocommandés imprimables Royaume-Uni Yachts Robots Britpop/Robot et Electronica RG65 de l'OIM PandP Yachts Maître artisan construction de bateaux, fourniture et réparation de gréements. Vision de l'OIM PJ Voiles Toscar nous Recherchez ici sur American Model Yacht Association Espagne Vinaixa Yachts Britpop, Sedici et Venti Croatie Voilier RC Kantun 2 et S Australie Conception de Frank Russell Ellipsis disponible chez ARS Composite Freelancer en Thaïlande Mirage Radio Yachts Panda, Cheinz2 Peter Burford Plan B Nouvelle-Zélande Constructeurs de puissance Kit de contreplaqué Night Hawk Vickers RC Voile V11 Association néo-zélandaise de yachting radio Bonne source de fournisseurs néo-zélandais Thaïlande Composants MX Goth-EVO3, MX14, Kantun, MX16, Malteser, REMIX 18, MX20 Evo Indépendant ARS Composite Ellipse

Craig Richards Tuning guide (Page 1) My Thanks to Craig Richards to allow me to copy his guide that he posted on facebook following his win at the 2023 Global Championships at Fleetwood . Mainsheet bridle: The mainsheet bridal is not your friend. It can burn out winches if incorrectly set and if that does not spoil your race then it has sneaky ways of snagging your mainsheet, which it will always do at the bottom mark when you are in the lead! I think I had one of the loosest mainsheet bridle setups at the Globals. I will show detail later of what the bridal looks like with each of the rigs, but its not something I adjust. It stays the same for all rigs. Mine looks like this: The first snag is probably only on the older boats. The bridle eyes were originally a bit larger and not always screwed all the way into the hull. Because they stood slightly proud, the mainsheet could loop around them and snag. This could be fixed by tacking away if lucky, but often the boat will stall head to wind and it is very difficult to recover from quickly. If you don't realise what has happened and continue to sheet in and hope for the best, the winch is stalled and may overheat etc. The fix is to screw them in all the way and fill the recess with epoxy glue. This is about as close as I will ever sheet in. There is never less than about 5mm between the bridle eye and the boom fitting. The starboard bridle line is slack, so this is as high as you can get the bridle eye off the deck. There is almost no vertical mainsheet tension so the winch has very little load and fine adjustments to the sheeting angle are possible without affecting the mainsails leech tension. The port bowsie should be hard against the deck eye, but I mucked with it for demo purposes and have not fixed to my preference yet. With a straight run for the jib sheet, it can get a bit snagged against the mast. Yes, jib fairlead is glued as well. I'll do a section on each rig, but the further forward you move the jib boom sheeting eye the further the jib will go out on the run. I've set mine so that both the main and jib reach 90 degrees at the same time on the runs Sheeting: This is how I run my sheets. It's not optimum from a friction point of view, but there is a tradeoff between reliability and the jib setting slightly differently on port and starboard tacks. If I only use the front jib sheeting deck eye then the jib boom goes slightly further out on the starboard side. It's a small amount, which is reduced by going through both eyes ... at least I think it does. I put the jib sheet through the port bridle deck eye to keep it away from the mast. In light conditions the thin yellow line (0.20mm) gets snagged between the boom gooseneck and the deck. It's only slightly sticky, but enough to stop the jib going out on the runs occasionally. Its not necessary for stronger conditions, but I stick to one way of routing all my sheets just to keep life simple. The A rig: I'll be posting some measurements, so just want to show what my masthead crane looks like as some of them sit a bit proud of the plastic mast insert. I think the standard sail templates have too much luff curve. I have a 'custom' luff curve from Catsails that has about 2mm less mid mast. I run the top of the sail at the bottom of the silver band and the attachment point to a second hole in the mast crane. I think the top of the sail behaves better with this setup. I run the mast gate as far back as possible and never touch it. It stays like this for all rigs. The DF seems to want as much aft rake as possible. So I rake it as far as it will go. I would rather take luff curve out of the front of the sail than bend the mast further. Too much mast bend means you need more vang on the beat, but this can lead to too tight a mainsail leech on the runs Mast Rake: With no Jib Forestay tension I want the mast curve to match the front of the main sail as far as possible. The curve I settled on was to tighten the backstay until the second attachment point from the bottom was just behind the mast (NB, remember I have about 2mm less luff curve than standard). This was easily repeatable without needing rulers etc. I then marked the backstay adjustment lines and always adjust straight to this point. I never change the backstay again except at the very top of A rig I might add a mm or two. The measurement from behind the bow bumper to the front hole in the masthead crane is 1140mm. This may seem further back than the rigging guides, but remember there is no forestay tension at this point. With a flat edge behind the mast, the mast curve is only 3-4mm, which is less than I was expecting.

Localisation de certains propriétaires de l'OIM à travers le monde

A propos de l'auteur Les jours de navigation dans le froid humide de Nigel Barrow sont révolus et il est maintenant activement impliqué sur la terre ferme dans la communauté internationale de voile radio d'un mètre, construisant et régate son propre bateau de compétition. À partir de 12 ans, il a rapidement progressé pour devenir champion du monde et national cadet international en 1973, champion national des jeunes en 1974, puis une campagne olympique en 470 s'entraînant pendant l'hiver avec le grand Jim Saltonstall pour atteindre la deuxième place aux essais olympiques de 1976. Après 4 autres années de campagne pour les Jeux olympiques russes boycottés, Nigel est passé à la campagne de divers dériveurs, puis s'est tourné vers le yachting, s'impliquant dans un certain nombre de campagnes réussies. Cette expérience s'est avérée inestimable dans le développement de ce site Web qui, espère-t-il, sera une excellente référence pour tous ceux qui construisent, naviguent et régatent des OIM. Il monte actuellement dans le classement en 2021 mais a encore beaucoup à apprendre à naviguer sur l'OIM dans une brise décente. Maintenant, si seulement on pouvait se brancher sur les décennies de navigation de nos meilleurs marins, la vie serait si facile. Il vous souhaite la meilleure des chances, quelle que soit votre quête de l'OIM.

Working up the Alioth. Boat 2 First of all thank you to all those who have bought a coffee to support the web site for the long term future. This is not a commercial site and I make no profit from it but I do need support to ensure its longevity. People tell me that it is a great source of information and the only site of its kind, so if you do enjoy it and get value from it why not pop over to Buymeacoffee . It takes any currency. If you do thank you. If 10% of the 5000 plus visitors bought 1 coffee, I could do so much more with the site This is a story about going backwards to go forwards. Move from a well set up boat to one that had to be developed and optimised. I am not a designer so some of the steps could be seen as labourious but every stage was tested and each change offered improvement. Spoiler alert, the story is still ongoing. None of this would have been possible without the help of Paul Barton. He is probably one of the most experienced 3d printers of the Alioth in the UK and is a brilliant ideas man. Of course we would not be doing this had it not been for the creative thinking of Juan Egea. Not only has he come up with a great design but opened the door for home building once again and allowed IOM’s to become freely available to new owners (for a reasonable licence fee of course). At the MYA AGM last year, I had a chance to buy an Alioth. It was a completely standard boat, sprayed with clearcoat but un sanded, with an old Alioth fin and bulb. I thought what better way to rest the Britpop than to buy the Alioth and sail it over the winter with the Britpop rigs. When I started to sail it, I was hooked on the design but my boat setup had some issues. I sailed a bit with Craig Richards but he was months ahead of me and truth be told a better sailor. My boat needed to sail with the rigs at zero degrees rake for balance which meant the booms pointed upward and it all looked rather ugly. Having the boom band 150mm from the step meant the boom was too high. I also had a poor A rig with prebend that occurred mostly around the 600mm mark, more of a kink than a bend which was created with rollers. The end result was a poor performing boat. The first thing to do was to rake the fin aft 2 degrees so I could put some rake on the mast. Unfortunately this moves the bulb back over a centimetre so the transom dropped in the water. Then I lowered the boom band to just off the foredeck above the mast ram. I had to the rakethe fin a degree forward to get the fore and aft balance better and that resulted in weather helm which to be frank was slow. With the Britpop it was easy to power off upwind and drive hard. With my set up I had the opposite and every time I took my eye off the boat it slowed. Craig had moved his fin aft so he could rake the rigs and achieved a balanced boat and was quick from the start with his V3. Eventually after struggling at the the ranking event at Eastbourne, I bit the bullet and moved the fin leading edge rake to a full 2.5 degrees (the aft edge was dead perpendicular to the waterline and then I moved the bulb forward 1.5cm to achieve balance and keep the stern just out of the water. I was then able to test the following week and had a balanced boat with the bow and stern just out of the water. To measure things accurately (see the instruction at the bottom of the article), all you need is paper, pen and a right angled set square. Once you have the dimensions, it is easy to replicate on a new boat. The boat came with under deck sheeting which gave me some issues, tangles and restricted range of movement which took a while to sort. Since trying it out I would prefer on deck sheeting in another boat as you can see any wear on the sheet and quickly repair any fraying cord. Having sorted all of this I ended up with a boat on weight but a bulb 25gm lighter than my Britpop. So after 6 months I got the boat set up that I wanted it. Remember I am not a designer and have to work by trial and error. I also get nervous about moving things around although my confidence is building on this as my knowledge builds. In a way it is good to fiddle as you learn on the journey whereas sailing a setup boat with instruction is quick but ones learning is limited. So what to do next. We heard a rumour that Juan was going to release a file for a 2 piece boat which would make it lighter and stronger. After some gentle persuasion we got the file and printed the boat which I could put together just before the nationals. I wanted a Craig Smith fin which is the lightest available and a Robot bulb. I could not fit a Smith fin to the current boat as I had glued the fin insert for the Alioth fin into the fin box but it would fit nicely in the new boat with a customised insert and this would allow us to vary the rake from zero to 2 degrees. The only thing we lacked was time. Putting an untested boat on the water 3 days before the Nationals was fraught with risk and so it proved. Other things we did to the new boat were to fit on deck sheeting, put the pulley in the centre at the back of the boat to minimise drag in the water, move the shroud base in a few mm as the eyes had the potential to damage other boats when healed over and it would not hurt to bring the shroud base in a bit. As a consequence I shortened the spreaders on the A and B rig and modified the jib tack fitting on the boom so I can get the jibs booms as close to the deck as possible. Then it was a case of going over the boat and minimising windage as far as possible. There was a structural change. After Juan had cracked his boat near the shroud area having been hit by a Venti without a bow bumper at an event earlier this year, Paul changed the aluminium posts that provided triangulation strength at the mast and shroud area replacing them with wires so that if there was impact in this area, the boat could flex and not split although the Polymax is extremely robust. I have hit a piece hard with a hammer and seen no damage or even a mark for that matter. It was a race against time especially as we had a couple of issues with the gluing. While Paul was sorting the boat I went through my rigs and did everything I could to and make sure the setup was good. New Cunningham design, lower the bottle screws, get the booms as parallel to the deck as possible. One mistake I made was to try 80lb fishing line to attach the jib luff to the mast. Unfortunately, the bowsie kept slipping the day before the Nationals so I went back to my trusty thicker cord. I had put the same on the backstay and had to replace that as well. One of the challenges I had was running the sheeting system under the deck using PTFE tube bent through 180 degrees. The winch could not handle the friction but then it was suggested I apply silicon grease to the cord and that solved the problem. So I picked up the boat on the Saturday before the Nationals, with the biggest job, fitting the fin and bulb in the afternoon but I had my map/diagram laid out on the floor with the optimal positions from the previous boat so I could position the fin and bulb accurately knowing the boat would be balanced and with the fore and aft weight distribution correct. What I did not realise at the time was that the bulb cant to the waterline was at 2 degrees when hand fitted but when I secured it with the nut the bulb cant increases to nearly 4 degrees. I only realised this after the nationals. One little check would have shown me the issue with the bulb. One thing I was able to do was accurately measure the bottom of the bulb in relation to the waterline and calculated I would have a 2 mm gap in the tank. The on-deck sheeting was a pleasure to set up and worked well although the way I had set the winch up meant that you had to move the stick a long way to ease the sheet making precise adjustment upwind difficult. Also the mix for a high mode was not working properly. I did not have time to fix that. I did drop the shroud bottle screws to the deck to get them out of the slot and that meant fitting longer shrouds Also checked the mast was a firm fit where it entered hull at the deck and happy to say it is rock solid. One final tweak was to the transmitter rudder control. I have a habit of over steering just after the start so I have introduced 20% of exponential to the steering. I had a quick test sail on Monday to check the sailing balance and that the boat sat in the water correctly. The transom was just out of the water and the bow 25mm out. I had 200gm of correctors to play with which I would position when the boat was measured. The boat was measured in Gosport on the Tuesday. It was exactly 1m long and the bulb 2mm above the limit and the rudder just inside the perpendicular from the transom. I had got something right. We had time to precisely locate the corrector weights. Wednesday was spent practice sailing at Frensham and then Thursday I raced at Gosport. That is when I got concerned about speed. The boat was just not powering off the start line. Yes it was shifty but I was getting rolled by boats around me. Not much I could do but live with it and take it to the Nationals. On the Friday at Poole there was a decent breeze and this is where I learnt that 8mm was not enough prebend in the mast. The jib luff sagged, the leach opened too much and the result was a boat slightly off the pace. I could have increased the prebend for the weekend but if I snapped the mast I would be off home. Thankfully the forecast was for light winds. The first day of the nationals was difficult (a polite way of saying bloody frustrating). After the seeding race I was put in C heat and progressed to B the A and stayed in A for two more races. The things unfolded. I was demoted to B then C and took 3 attempts to get out of C and then two attempts to get from B back to A where I stayed for the rest of the regatta. In summary, I was getting great starts but lacked pace and dropped back into the fleet but once back in A fleet after my excursions was always able to find a way to stay there. The result from the Nationals was not what I wanted but I was going through a commissioning process, so 14th is OK. The boat was not as quick as I would like, and I was able to nail down the reasons why and quickly fix on Tuesday. So, what was the list of things to do after the Nationals On mast bend, 8mm of prebend proved to be too little to support a firm jib luff and leech when sailing upwind. I wanted to use the same mast but with more prebend without using my rollers. I have found with the rollers that you have to get the roller settings to a certain point before the mast bends permanently. It is very easy to get hard spots, so I thought it time to bend the mast by hand. Surprisingly it is not that difficult to achieve a smooth bend by bending the mast carefully around my middle. So my 8mm turned to 15mm over 600mm and I put a gentle reverse bend into the whole mast. Only a few mm. The result when rerigged was stunning. Complete control on the jib leech and the ability to set any bend I liked and no hard spots on the mast. I will not be using rollers again. I also discovered the bulb cant was nearly 4 degrees rather than the two I thought I had. I took the bolt off, and the hand fitted bulb was 2 degrees but what I had not realised was there was a high spot in the slot on the bulb and when the bolt was tightened the bulb rocked and increased the cant. I also need to increase the weight of the bulb by 15gms. There is a hole in the slot which I can fill with lead shot so should be able to get the bulb and fin to full weight. I fiddled and reprogrammed the winch, so I was able to have full control sheeting when sailing upwind. That also restored the mixing which gives me high mode. I will put a blog up on that later. Those three things alone will surely increase the performance of the boat. All this done, I am ready to test the improvements. The journey continues. 5 months to the worlds. How to measure fin and bulb position (see picture below) After a ranking event where the weather helm caused me issues, I ended up raking the fin 2.5 degrees and moved the bulb just over a centimetre forward. This required careful trimming of the slot in the bulb but with a Dremel you can do a neat job but how to get the bulb in the right place Take 2 A2 sheets of drawing paper and tape them together along the shortest edge. Lie this on a wooden floor and place the boat on it. Use the top side as the waterline. The bulb draft limit is 3mm below the bottom or the A2 sheet. Using a right-angle triangle or T square, put a mark on the water line of the boat at the bow at the point where the designer says the bow should kiss the water. Align the boats water line with the top edge of the paper marking the exact bow and stern position. If you do this right, you will be able to move the boat and relocate with precision. Once you have the waterline established, raise the fin so it is parallel to the floor (3 dvd boxes should do it) and recheck the boats position. Also it is worth checking at this stage that the boat is 1m long. Once the boat is in position, you can mark the four corners of the fin, then mark the tip and back point of the bulb so you can measure the cant. Each point is marked on the paper using the adjustable right-angled triangle which also allows me to measure precise angles. This Alioth design requires the bottom of the leading edge to be a certain distance from the bow by drawing that line with the fin in that position and marking the front point of the bulb is, I had my starting point for the bulb position. I then marked where the centre of gravity of the bulb should be so I can line up the C of G of my new bulb in the same place with a raked fin. When I changed to a bulb with a different length, I was able to position its centre of gravity with ease.

Les références Les détails J'ai pensé qu'il pourrait être utile de souligner quelques références qui ont de nombreux conseils utiles. Le premier est le manuel MYA de 2009 qui se trouve sur le site MYA. Ce manuel contenait tant d'idées utiles de la construction et de la navigation de votre yacht radio à la gestion d'événements, la pose de repères, la mesure, la fabrication de voiles et bien plus encore. Voici le lien vers le manuel sur le site MYA https://mya-uk.org.uk/kb/mya-handbook-2009/ En fait, le site MYA est une riche source d'informations et devrait faire l'objet d'une enquête approfondie. Il y a 3 sources d'informations tactiques que j'ai trouvées particulièrement utiles. « La tactique de la course de voiliers » par Peter Czajka et couvre la tactique contre la stratégie, les tactiques et les règles, les tactiques pour les débutants et un cours accéléré sur les règles. Peter Czajka s'est beaucoup impliqué dans la voile de compétition depuis l'âge de 14 ans. Au cours des premières années, il a réussi dans les 470, les lasers et les fléchettes. Jusqu'à il y a quelques années, on le trouvait encore régulièrement lors des régates Sprinto, ou comme barreur ou tacticien lors de diverses régates au large. Aujourd'hui, il est actif en tant qu'officiel de course pour la Fédération autrichienne de voile et en tant qu'arbitre ou membre de jury lors de régates internationales. https://www.czajka.at/html/en/track.html "Tactiques de course pour les voiliers modèles radiocommandés". Narrabeen voile. Couvre tous les aspects des courses de yachts miniatures avec des vidéos et une présentation d'une heure par Peter Isler sur le démarrage. En passant, j'adore leur attitude envers la voile. « Bien que la course soit prise au sérieux, il y a toujours une atmosphère détendue. La navigation s'arrête pendant 15 minutes pour un smoko matinal à 10h00 - et les membres se réunissent pour déjeuner dans un café local la plupart des mardis. Une régate familiale avec barbecue a lieu tous les six mois environ. https://www.narrabeensailing.com/tactics Règles et tactiques de course de John's RC, y compris les changements dans les nouvelles règles 2021-2024. Ces articles sont écrits pour les marins de RC Yacht Racing débutants à intermédiaires, mais peuvent être un bon rappel pour ceux qui ont plus d'expérience. Ils ont été mis à jour pour refléter les règles de course à la voile (les RCV) 2021 - 2024 qui sont entrées en vigueur le 1er janvier 2021. Les articles sont organisés en une série de chapitres qui commencent par quelques notions de base, puis vous guident sur le parcours du départ, à la marque météo, à la porte sous le vent et à l'arrivée. L'article Haling couvre diverses règles autour de l'hippodrome. Il y a quelques éléments bonus qui traitent de questions telles que la différence entre le bon parcours, la place des marques et le droit de passage (ROW) ; ce qui se passe lors d'une audience de protestation ; et pour éviter une audience de réclamation, comment effectuer un tour de pénalité. https://sites.google.com/site/johnsrcsailingrulesandtactics/home Vous voulez connaître les meilleurs designs de bateaux des 6 derniers mondes. Les voici sans ordre particulier : Kantun Pop Sedici Britpop Nitro adriatique V10 Tatam V9 Proto2 Enfin, si vous voulez revoir vos règles, essayez ce livre de quiz. https://shop.ussailing.org/copy-of-100-best-racing-rules-quizzes-through-2024.html?id=59218958 Pour un avant-goût, regardez ici et dites si vous avez raison. Ils ne sont pas faciles. https://www.ussailing.org/competition/rules-officiating/dave-perrys-100-best-racing-rules-quizzes/

Le résultat final